Matteo

Overview

If you could picture the kind of Italian restaurant you'd like in your neighbourhood, you'd probably picture Matteo. In the old Limoncello digs in Double Bay, you'll find friendly service, great booze and a thumping big pizza oven that warms up the whole space with doughy and cheesy aromas.

The persuasive simplicity of its menu is personified in the burrata panzanella with heirloom cherry tomatoes, cucumber, gazpacho and croutons. The saute mussels with chilli and garlic is divine while the beef tartare is perfection.

The first thing you notice walking into the space is the deceptively simple, and really beautiful design. The full grey terrazzo marble bar, painted brick walls and diamond tiles — both in cream — and blonde timber tables and chairs. But the real hero is the sizeable exposed kitchen and matte white cladded wood-fired pizza oven with the most beautiful pale mint panelling encasing it. Matteo manages to feel bright and summery but also intimate and stylish for the evening. Bravo.

The linguini hits all the right notes with fresh king prawns, shaved zucchini, heirloom cherry tomatoes and bottarga; it has everything you want from a dish like this. The staff are confident, quick and on-point with a wine suggestion of a crisp Fattoria Uccelliera Pinot Bianco Viognier from Italy.

Matteo's is home to some damn fine pizza as well — expect a perfectly charred, soft base topped with sparse, quality ingredients. The funghi option with porcini mushrooms, gorgonzola, pancetta and evoo manages to be big on flavour without being too rich. The ternderloin eye-fillet with truffle mash and mirto jus is another fab addition to the menu.

Finish the night off with a Fernet-Branca amaro and tiramisu and things are looking good. The simplicity of the formula, paired with the confidence in its delivery makes Matteo a very lovely local indeed.

Images: Steven Woodburn.

Appears in:
Where to Find the Best Pizza in Sydney
The Best Italian Restaurants in Sydney