No. 92

Designed by Sydney's Pattern Studio, Glebe's new two-storey wine bar is so opulent you'd never realise the building had previously been a boot factory — and a bank, a tailor, a pizzeria, a grocer and a private investigator's office. No 92 Glebe Point Road has quite the history. For its latest costume change, the building has been decked out with banquettes, gorgeous marble-topped tables, plush lounges, works by Taiwanese Australian artist Angie Pai on the walls and elaborate pendant lights hanging from the ceiling.

Sydney's soon-to-launch wine collective Super Super has created the drinks list, which spans European and Australian drops, classic old-world bottles and minimal-intervention newcomers — both Cake Wines' barbera and Delinquente's pét-nat make the cut. Apart from wine, punters can sip sherry, Italian craft brews and aperitif-style cocktails.

The kitchen is run by UK chef John Lyons, who has spent time in a range of Michelin-starred restaurants in France and the UK (including Rascasse in Leeds). The menu ranges from bar snacks and a la carte menu items to a six-course degustation — which costs a reasonable $70 or $120 with paired wines. Expect to feast on the likes of mussels in orange beurre blanc sauce, celeriac schnitzel topped with hazelnut butter and confit tuna with cherry pastillas.

T Pakioufakis

On weekends, brunch and lunch are on the docket, too — think brioche french toast with quandong fruit and almond cream ($16), smashed avo with nori butter ($16) and granola with fennel pollen ($15). Coffee comes from Surry Hills favourite Artificer, so you'll know it'll be good.

If you're not wanting to commit to a full meal, you can also snack on the likes of freshly shucked oysters with pepperberry mignonette (six for $20), salt cod croquettes ($24), mushroom and truffle arancini ($18) and a wagyu brisket toast ($24). In summer, grab a seat in the cobbled courtyard out back or at one of the tables out front — they're primed for people watching with wine in hand.

Images: T Pakioufakis