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FOOD & DRINK

The Unicorn

This friendly, unpretentious pub from the Mary’s gang is well-loved for its homegrown beer and wine list.
By Erina Starkey
January 07, 2016
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The Unicorn

This friendly, unpretentious pub from the Mary’s gang is well-loved for its homegrown beer and wine list.
By Erina Starkey
January 07, 2016
  shares

UPDATE: MAY 29, 2020 — Oxford Street's unpretentious pub is back open and welcoming customers to dine in once again. You can book online or try your luck by walking in, either way, though, we recommend you order the schnitty and a nice cold pint o' beer.

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Last year Sydney celebrated America's contribution to the culinary table. Whether that was slow-cooked barbecue, fried chicken or cheeseburgers, we just couldn't seem to clog our arteries fast enough with offerings from the land of lard.

This year, Mary's boys Kenny Graham and Jake Smyth, Porteno's Elvis Abrahanowicz and Young Henrys Oscar McMahon have turned their attention to Australian cuisine (yes, we have one). Their much-anticipated pub baby, The Unicorn, is proudly dishing up Aussie pub classics, including steak and chips, roast chook, meat pies and a pav so bloody delicious it'll bring a patriotic tear to your eye.

Despite the swanky address in Paddington, you won't find leather banquettes or fancy dangly lights inside. Who needs 'em. Instead, there's a dartboard, a pool table (with games just $1), an old piano for drunken sing-alongs, cold beer and good food. Seriously m8, what more do you need?

To start, you can order Jatz with house-made French onion dip ($5) — it was the ultimate party starter from the '70s, this Aussie appetiser still hits the spot to this day. From the main menu, it's pretty hard to go past the Mary's burger, but with Elvis in charge there are still plenty of other dishes to instil food envy. The Unicorn's Holmbrae corn-fed chicken schnitzel uses both the breast and wing, which are deep-fried to a crust. It's served with creamy mash and a pool of pan gravy — and if you ask me. it's one of the best in Sydney.

There are also a few steaks on offer, although you won't find the usual porterhouse, scotch fillet and rib eye on the list. Here it's spider steak ('the daily steak') or wagyu onglet ('the fancy steak') expertly cooked with a choice of sides, ranging from cauliflower cheese, crinkle-cut chips, peas, mash or honey carrots. You may have shied away from cooking these curious cuts at home, but they come up real nice when treated with a little respect. Vegos are not (entirely) forgotten, there's also a vegetarian lasagna ($24) containing 'a shitload of vegetables with pasta 'n' cheese'. Well put.

The real cherry atop The Unicorn is the old-fashioned dessert list, which includes a pav and sticky date pudding ($15 each)

Young Henrys is well represented on tap — however, it would be pretty un-Australian to neglect the VB, Resch's and Carlton, which feature alongside. For the plonk, the wine list is all-Australian, featuring top drops by small local producers, listed by state.

Just when you thought The Unicorn couldn't get any more magical, you'll be pleased to learn it's located on the lockout-free side of Oxford Street. You little beauty!

Images: Bodhi Liggett

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