Overview
There's more to fashion than the glitz and glam that meets the eye. There's more to clothes than how we look and feel in them. There's more to design than pattern making and sewing machines. Think sleepless nights, hours on end researching, sketching, pinning, fitting, hand stitching and photographing. Think hits and misses. Think praises and rejections. Think hungry models and nicotine. Welcome to a designer's world.
The rise of the designer in contemporary society has often been received with wild debate. The rise of the Sydney designer is something completely different. In a turbulent artistic climate where local independent designers are facing challenging economic times, our city is taking resilient strides to keep Australia's fashion scene boundary pushing. Sydney is home to a pool of young creatives who might just make it as the next big thing. And Concrete Playground reckons we've just the tip. Let us introduce you to three of the best at the TAFE Fashion Design Graduate Show.
JESSICA GIBSON
Jessica Gibson has always been a visual person. She remembers forever being drawn to textiles, to art and to film. For her, design was the easiest way to express herself. For her, fashion would become an outlet for a multitude of creative passions. After studying textiles at RMIT in Melbourne, Gibson knew she wanted to pursue fashion design, and that she has. After three years on the slog Gibson's debut collection has arrived.
"My collection is inspired by the Australian landscape and the futuristic architectural designs of the superstudio of the '60s and '70s," says Gibson, "wooden beads contrast natural silks and organic screen printing to make a collection that is for a woman who wants to feel sexy without having everything on show."
Fusing textural fabrications with bold, colour-rich prints, Gibson's designs speak of an aesthetic driven by a fondness of tactility and delicate silhouettes. Says Gibson, "Majority of my range is made from silks. I really wanted to work with beautiful fabrics that would drape well ... I then looked towards simple, clean shapes, which is where my silhouettes have come from."
Lest we forget that Gibson has recently experienced first hand the wonder that is Dion Lee. And she learned a very important lesson while under his wing, too. "I've learnt to always question myself. The ability to see things from others' perspective is very important," she says.
So here's hoping we hear about Gibson's colourful career in Australia's fashion industry. Rumour has it, we may even find her designing some hip shades in the near future. "I love working with other people so I want to build my name by collaborating with other creatives," she says, "and I've always had an interest in eye wear and I think that's something I'd love to explore."
Photography: Saskia Wilson
ELISSA MCGOWAN
"I have wanted to be a designer ever since I can remember," says graduate designer, Elissa McGowan, "I have a lot of memories of drawing clothes, making paper dolls and trying to make my own clothes." McGowan's work focuses on the organic use of line and working with the body to flatter it, which has led her to experiment with integrating different technologies to achieve the desired affect. "Recently my focus has been on integrating technology such as laser cutting and bonding which has allowed me to create more engineered garments. I don't want these processes to appear obvious, so I try to ensure the use of technology doesn't over-rule the design," she explains.
And as for her debut into the fashion world? McGowan's TAFE collection is striking to say the least. Translating a muted colour palette into a vibrant collection inspired by the surreal work of post-war British artist Francis Bacon, McGowan has realised a certain ethereality in her design. "I looked at the ideology of surrealism … I focused on developing a few pieces that were engineered to the body. For these pieces, I wanted them to almost look like they could have been painted, so the lines are quite fluid but the silhouettes are focused," she says.
From here, McGowan can't wait to start her next collection but is aware of how committed she needs to be. "I do want to let things develop organically, as it’s a huge commitment to start a business in this industry and I want to make sure I am 110 percent ready for that. I’m interested in doing a bit of travelling to the textile fairs and I would love to go to India to do some fabric development," she says.
Photography: Saskia Wilson
Hair and Makeup: Anni Hall
Model: Carolin B from Chic
LEROY NGUYEN
Graduate designer, Leroy Nguyen, knows what he wants in ten years. To be "stocked globally," he says. And we believe he will be on the count of his very directional aesthetic. "I would describe my designs as modern and high end. My design aesthetic is all about clean, masculine, tailored lines with a strong focus on cut, structured silhouettes and interesting proportions," he says. And who's wearing his designs? "Confident women who don't feel the need to try too hard to be sexy. Women that like to have a bit of fun with fashion. Women that like to be bold, but also appreciate the importance of quality and comfort."
For his TAFE graduate collection, Natural Born Killer, Nguyen found inspiration in all the characteristics that the iconic James Bond Girl embodied. "Dual personalities and espionage, faceted diamonds and the fluid, transparent, reflecting and refractive qualities of water are the main themes used to drive the range," he says. And the result? A mix of athleticism and femininity. "Embossed and coated leathers and fused silks are layered with plastics and mesh, and vivid digital prints are offset by stark, clinical whites in a range of looks that all have strong roots in tailored athleticism ... there are casual, luxe sports pieces alongside more vampy cocktail dresses, whilst slick tailoring can be seen throughout," explains Nguyen.
All this from very humble beginnings, too. "I entered this course [TAFE] not even knowing how to hand sew a button to a shirt," Nguyen confesses, "today, I can design, develop and produce an entire collection." Nguyen's first step as a new graduate? To hit the ground running towards developing and launching the Leroy Nguyen brand. Watch this space.