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FOOD & DRINK

Andy Bowdy's OTT Christmas Trifles Are Back So You Can One-Up Gran Again

The four versions are loaded with fresh fruits, boozy jellies, caramelised almonds and salted coconut cream.
By Leisha Kapor
October 21, 2019
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Andy Bowdy's OTT Christmas Trifles Are Back So You Can One-Up Gran Again

The four versions are loaded with fresh fruits, boozy jellies, caramelised almonds and salted coconut cream.
By Leisha Kapor
October 21, 2019
  shares

If your idea of trifle is Aeroplane Jelly, Madeira cake from the nearest supermarket, tinned peaches and cheap rum, think again. Pastry chef and owner of Enmore's Saga and Darling Square's Saga Lyte Andy Bowdy — whose peanut butter and banana sundaes (once served at Hartsyard) are the stuff of legend — has reinvented the dessert, especially for Christmas. His festive trifles made their debut in 2017 and, thankfully, they've become something of a tradition.

In Bowdy's words, "I know a trifle can be a little controversial, but lets face it — a trifle is basically a cake in a bowl." If you've ever sampled his cakes, you'll take that as good tidings. Exceptionally good tidings. These trifles are not just cakes, but OTT masterpieces, loaded with all kinds of goodies, like peach and raspberry compote, brown sugar pecans, coconut macaroon and boozy ginger beer jelly.

On the Christmas trifle menu this year are four options. First up, is the Pasan, named for Bowdy's mate and hospo neighbour Pasan Wijesena (Earl's Juke Joint, Jacoby's Tiki Bar). Christmas vibes abound in the Pasan, which has layers of panettone, ginger beer jelly, booze-soaked Christmas fruit, spiced brandy custard, orange curd, caramelised almonds, vanilla chantilly, and fresh plums and blueberries, all topped with a spiced crumble. It's a mouthful.

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Do you enjoy a lairy Christmas lunch, are you looking to get nan and the rest of the relos legless to make the day slightly more bearable, are you like me and drown yourself in food and leave no room for the party drinks, or maybe you’re the kind of person who understands the correct pudding to custard ratio and enjoys a slither of Xmas pudding drowned in a litre of brandy custard? If you can relate than Pasan is the trifle you want to be introducing to your family and or friends this Xmas. Think a lighter version of Xmas pudding heavy on lubrication. Spiced crumble, panettone, brandy custard, whole orange curd, ginger beer jelly, fresh plum and blueberry, vanilla chantilly, candied smoked almonds and packed full of drunken Xmas fruit. Taking orders through the @saga_enmore website Monday morning. Quantities are as limited as my spare coolroom space so get in quick.#christmas #trifle #andybowdypastry #sagaenmore #f52grams #xmas #dessert @mexicoorbust

A post shared by Andrew Bowden (@andybowdy) on

For those after something a on the (slightly) lighter side, the Eliza is named after Bowdy's sister — he's taken her love of mangoes and run with it. It's got mango pudding, Nan's sponge, vanilla chantilly, fresh mango and passionfruit salad, salted coconut cream, jelly, and the crunch of both coconut macaroons and coconut wafers.

Returning for another year, is Bowdy's modern take on the traditional trifle, the Philly. Think layers of vanilla sponge, maple custard, vanilla chantilly and peach and rosemary compote, spiked with peach and bourbon jelly, and topped with brown sugar pecans, Anzac crumbs and fresh peaches and raspberries. Then, for Italophiles, there's the Tiramisu.

Each cake is $195, feeds 18–22 people, and comes in a lovely glass trifle bowl that is yours to keep, so you can endeavour to recreate the magic throughout the year.

Andy Bowdy's Christmas trifles can be ordered online now and collected from Saga, Enmore, from November 1 through to December 24.

Published on October 21, 2019 by Leisha Kapor

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