Overview
If your idea of trifle is Aeroplane Jelly, Madeira cake from the nearest supermarket, tinned peaches and cheap rum, think again. Pastry chef and owner of Enmore's Saga and Darling Square's Saga Lyte Andy Bowdy — whose peanut butter and banana sundaes (once served at Hartsyard) are the stuff of legend — has reinvented the dessert, especially for Christmas. His festive trifles made their debut in 2017 and, thankfully, they've become something of a tradition.
In Bowdy's words, "I know a trifle can be a little controversial, but lets face it — a trifle is basically a cake in a bowl." If you've ever sampled his cakes, you'll take that as good tidings. Exceptionally good tidings. These trifles are not just cakes, but OTT masterpieces, loaded with all kinds of goodies, like peach and raspberry compote, brown sugar pecans, coconut macaroon and boozy ginger beer jelly.
On the Christmas trifle menu this year are four options. First up, is the Pasan, named for Bowdy's mate and hospo neighbour Pasan Wijesena (Earl's Juke Joint, Jacoby's Tiki Bar). Christmas vibes abound in the Pasan, which has layers of panettone, ginger beer jelly, booze-soaked Christmas fruit, spiced brandy custard, orange curd, caramelised almonds, vanilla chantilly, and fresh plums and blueberries, all topped with a spiced crumble. It's a mouthful.
For those after something a on the (slightly) lighter side, the Eliza is named after Bowdy's sister — he's taken her love of mangoes and run with it. It's got mango pudding, Nan's sponge, vanilla chantilly, fresh mango and passionfruit salad, salted coconut cream, jelly, and the crunch of both coconut macaroons and coconut wafers.
Returning for another year, is Bowdy's modern take on the traditional trifle, the Philly. Think layers of vanilla sponge, maple custard, vanilla chantilly and peach and rosemary compote, spiked with peach and bourbon jelly, and topped with brown sugar pecans, Anzac crumbs and fresh peaches and raspberries. Then, for Italophiles, there's the Tiramisu.
Each cake is $195, feeds 18–22 people, and comes in a lovely glass trifle bowl that is yours to keep, so you can endeavour to recreate the magic throughout the year.
Andy Bowdy's Christmas trifles can be ordered online now and collected from Saga, Enmore, from November 1 through to December 24.