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Five Innovative Restaurants to Try in The Rocks

Hatted chef Mark Best conducts his more casual experiments in The Rocks. And he's not alone.
Jasmine Crittenden
June 18, 2015

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Overview

The Rocks might be one of Sydney’s most beautifully preserved historic areas, but its dining scene is in no way stuck in time. Among the sandstone buildings and cobbled laneways, you’ll discover sushi revolutions, serious cocktail experiments, ground-breaking fusion menus and some of the city’s finest bistronomy. Here are the restaurants serving up some of The Rocks’ best new flavours.

SAKE

If you think you know your sushi, get ready to stop at a whole new station. Forget your California rolls and tuna with avocado. At Sake, you’re in for whizz-bang, hatted creations. We’re talking grilled eel with cream cheese, cucumber, tempura crunch, jalapeno mayo and avocado, and Korean-inspired K-Town roll with seared beef, takuan pickle, wrapped in sesame leaf and yang-yang sauce. Plus, there are more than 40 sakes to match them with. Executive chef Shaun Presland learned how to make sushi in Japan for 15 years before working at Nobu’s Bahamas outpost and the Establishment’s Sushi-e and Sake.

ANANAS

Since opening in 2012, Ananas has been bringing a sizeable dose of Parisian glamour to The Rocks. Under the guidance of chef de cuisine Neil Martin, classic French dishes are served up in their freshest and most indulgent incarnations. Think scallop ceviche with fennel, tangerine and tarragon; dressed blue crab with avocado and horseradish; and oysters. Lots of oysters. To ensure your dishes are appropriately accompanied, there’s a handpicked selection of champagnes and a bunch of signature cocktails.

PEI MODERN

Mark Best, who heads up fine-dining institution Marque, is one of Australia’s best chefs. And at Pei Modern, his recently opened bistro, you can sample his creations without paying hatted price tags. It’s housed in the spacious ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, where a central open kitchen allows you to watch the cooking in action. Go for John Dory cooked on the bone with cauliflower puree and saltbush; Holmbrae chicken with baby Brussels sprouts and lardo; or ricotta dumplings with zucchini flowers and lazy man’s pesto. The emphasis is on simple yet innovative dishes, with super-fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

SAILORS THAI

Here’s where you’ll find some of the most exciting Thai in the city. With tantalising street food and ancient recipes as its base, the menu spices matters up with Australian produce and surprise ingredients. There’s no cutting corners: dishes are cooked slowly and pastes are made daily on the premises. Eat at a communal table, beside one of Sydney’s first open kitchens, or retreat to the deck for sparkling views of the harbour. No wonder people say that the best Thai in the world is in Sydney.

WILLIAM BLUE DINING

If you like getting to know Sydney's next generation of star chefs before they've headed their own kitchens or released a cookbook (and would like to support them along the way), this is the place to be. Now located at Rockpool's former digs, William Blue Dining is the city's oldest hospitality management school, training students in commercial cookery, front of house and events. As part of the training, they keep a restaurant running for lunch and dinner, six days a week. It's $38 for three courses (also available individually) of the likes of oven roasted Milly Hill Lamb rump with saffron fondant potatoes, asparagus, pickled turnips and jus. It's a five-star culinary treat at a fraction of the cost.

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