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Ito Is the Two-Storey Japanese Izakaya That's Moved Into Cuckoo Callay's Old Surry Hills Digs

A beloved Sydney space has been reborn as a sake- and seafood-loving restaurant with a former Cho Cho San and Nobu chef at the helm.
Ben Hansen
October 17, 2023

Overview

Sydney's love affair with Japanese drinking and dining has just welcomed an exciting new player. Itō is the new izakaya that's opened its doors in the former home of the Surry Hills cafe Cuckoo Callay. ESCA Group (AALIA, Nour, Lilymu) has transformed the long-standing breakfast spot into a late-night haven for sake and seafood.

With the addition of black stained floors, Tasmanian blackwood furniture and izakaya-inspired fabrics hanging from the ceiling, the Crown Street space has been reshaped from a bustling neighbourhood cafe to a welcoming watering hole. The new restaurant and bar boast room for 85 guests inside and an additional 25 in the al fresco area.

Head Chef Erik Ortolani arrives at Itō with five years of experience as the Head Chef of Nobu, as well as time in charge of the Cho Cho San kitchen. With his wealth of experience, Ortolani has created a menu filled with classic Japanese flavours that's not afraid to experiment.

"Whilst my heritage is Italian, my passion is Japanese cooking," says Ortolani. "It feels natural to me to use a combination of the two as a vehicle for creating a really unique menu that is still very signature Japanese, and that's exactly what we've done with Itō. Fresh seasonal produce, smart cooking, bright flavours."

If you're popping in for a drink after work, you'll be greeted with an extensive collection of sake; a wine list celebrating Japanese, Italian and Australian drops; and a Japanese-inspired cocktail list.

Food-wise, you'll find snacks galore. Edamame, hiramasa kingfish, spanner crab chawanmushi, yellowfin tuna with bonito bread and agebitashi eggplant are all on offer.

You can also arrive hungry and enjoy a full Japanese feast at Itō. Heftier dishes like koji chicken and hibachi-grilled wagyu round out the offerings — while there are a pair of banquets starting at $89 for seven menu highlights and dessert.

"We're so excited to bring the community on Itō's journey, to be an extension of the neighbourhood's desire to reconnect and socialise, with delicious and exciting food at the centre of every occasion," says co-founder and Executive Director of ESCA Group Ibrahim Moubadder.

Find Itō at 413–415 Crown Street, Surry Hills. It's open for dinner seven days a week — from 5.30–9pm (for last bookings) Sunday–Thursday and 5.30–9.30pm Friday–Saturday — and lunch from 12–2.30pm Wednesday–Sunday.

Images: Jiwon Kim.

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