Overview
As a vegetarian, it can be easy to feel like an after-thought. Many meat-centric restaurants offer an animal-free option or two, but, all too often, such dishes are not particularly well-considered. That said, more and more restaurants in Sydney are demonstrating that herbivores as just as — if not more — important than their carnivorous counterparts. At the ten covered here, look forward to settling in for, not just a mighty fine vegetarian dish, but an evening-long degustation. Whether you're hoping for fine dining that takes meat-free cooking into the ether or a friendly, affordable feast, you'll find it.
THIEVERY, GLEBE
Since opening in Glebe in 2015, this cosy eatery has been attracting queues for its imaginative take on Middle Eastern fare. Legend goes that most of the recipes were stolen (with permission) from ex-Nomad chef Julian Cincotta by current head chef Jordan Muhamad (ex-Rockpool). Just a few of these are turmeric baghrir (crumpet) with confit leek, crème fraîche and grape molasses; sheesh barak (Lebanese dumplings) with braised silverbeet, shanklish cheese and fried chickpeas; and haloumi with honey and macadamia dukkah. The vegetarian degustation, dubbed Feast One, gets you nine courses for 52 bucks per head.
YELLOW, POTTS POINT
This European-style, 100-percent vegetarian bistro serves up some of the finest meat-free cooking in Sydney. It's the work of chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt, who are also responsible for Bentley and Monopole. There are degustations for vegetarians and vegans, both dotted with exotic veggies and heirloom varietals. Among the beautifully composed dishes you'll discover are a butternut pumpkin with miso brown butter and saltbush, as well as a pink lady apple terrine with burnt onion and honey. Five courses will set you back $75 (plus $65 for matching wines) and seven for $95 (plus $85).
TWO CHAPS, MARRICKVILE
Every Thursday and Friday night, Marrickville's Two Chaps cafe stays open late for a set vegetarian dinner featuring hand-made pasta and local cheeses. Dishes vary from week to week, but they're always made from scratch with fresher-than-fresh ingredients. One evening you might be tucking into spinach pappardelle with pine mushrooms, chestnuts, caper butter and pine nut crumbs, and, the next, ravioli with parsley root and buffalo ricotta filling, white wine butter, hazelnut and vein sorrel. You're invited to bring along a bottle of wine or two: the feast is $55 per head, including corkage.
OTTO, WOOLLOOMOOLOO
For Italian fare fit for a Roman emperor – with dazzling Sydney Harbour views to match – settle in for a meat-free degustation at Otto, on the Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf. Both vegetarians and vegans are looked after with dedicated six-course menus. Just a couple of the gustatory marvels you could find yourself sinking into are a pickled beetroot ravioli with goat's curd, pistachio and horse radish, and an aged acquerello risotto with mushrooms and stracciatella. Expect to pay $140 per head or $215 with matching wines.
QUAY, THE ROCKS
Another spot that takes vegetarian dining to transcendental levels is Quay, which, in 2017, was one of just three restaurants in New South Wales to score three chefs' hats. Chef Peter Gilmore spends a lot of time experimenting with new plants and herbs, so the menu is ever-changing, depending on his latest discoveries. Dishes that have graced the degustation previously include new season muntries (native cranberries) with sheep's milk feta, cucumber, herbs, macadamia and verjus; and stone pot green rice, buckwheat, sesame, perilla, new season asparagus and wakame broth. The restaurant is currently closed for renovations, but will reopen mid-year with a fresh look and a new menu.
ALFIE'S KITCHEN, VARIOUS LOCATIONS
The degustations held by Alfie's Kitchen have an unusual element: surprise. Rather than taking place in a restaurant, they happen as pop-up events – in warehouse spaces, at festivals and as part of private functions. Plus, they're not just vegetarian — they're vegan. If you've ever had any doubt about the potential of plant-based food to be as tasty, adventurous and fun as its meaty counterpart, then get along and have your fears allayed. Prepare for native influences — such as the leek smoked in blue gum with potato and finger lime — and unexpected combinations, like avocado with oyster mushrooms and macadamia cream. At present, it has two secret warehouse dinners organised for April 8 and 27, but keep an eye on Alfie's Kitchen's website for other upcoming feasts.
ORMEGGIO AT THE SPIT, MOSMAN
Ormeggio's contemporary creations visit both Italy and Spain. But, in lieu of the Mediterranean, they come accompanied by vistas of Middle Harbour and Pearl Bay. Executive chef Alessandro Pavoni cut his teeth in the company of renowned chefs Iginio Massari and Giuseppe Maffioli, and has sinced worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants, including Villa Fiordaliso, Lake Garda. The vegetarian degustations, available in five- ($106) and seven-course ($126) formats, are based on simple yet impeccably designed creations, such as green asparagus, corn, apple, pine nuts and coffee. Matching wines are available – both standard and premium.
YULLI'S, SURRY HILLS
At Yulli's, vegetarianism isn't merely an alternative: it's the reason for being. What's more, the restaurant has been around for years, so there's been plenty of time to come up with interesting dishes. These include the famous moneybags — crunchy parcels crowded with edamame and coconut — as well as jian dui, fried sesame balls filled with cucumber, pickled radish and roasted peanuts and served on a sesame leaf. The banquet, at $40 per head, is the most affordable on this list and gets you three courses plus dessert. Match your picks with Australian wines or a Yulli's Brew or two.
BATHERS' PAVILION, BALMORAL
Another herbivorous degustation to come with sparkling Middle Harbour panoramas is the one dished up at the Bathers' Pavilion, which is perched on the water at Balmoral. Relax into a comfy banquette in front of glass concertina windows and prepare to indulge in a decadent adventure, fuelled by seasonal produce and French influences. Chef Serge Dansereau's creations include pumpkin and goat cheese cannelloni with hazelnut, cherry tomato, dill and caper wafer; and a passionfruit mousse with Valrhona blond chocolate, turmeric and lemon sauce, and passionfruit sorbet. Five courses are priced at $130 ($190 with matching wines) and seven at $150 ($230).
MOMOFUKU SEIOBO, PYRMONT
This one's another extravaganza and it's possibly the most unusual, adventurous feast on the list. Momofuku Seiobo, when it opened in Pyrmont in 2011, was the Momofuku Group's first outpost beyond New York City. Barbados-born executive chef Paul Carmichael oversees the creation of 14-course degustations, driven by seasonal produce and inspired by Caribbean cuisine. Dishes vary, but previous offerings include handmade pasta with goat's curd, tomato, chilli and deep-fried mint, as well as creamy pumpkin and coconut pudding with raisin puree and banana leaf-perfumed ice cream. Expect to pay $185 per head, plus $105 for matching wines or $65 for a reduced wine menu.