Overview
First came Bar Nina, the laidback Italian joint on the corner of Stanley Street and Crown with a relaxed vibe and a winning formula. Seamlessly morphing from a bright and breezy brunch spot by day into a buzzy neighbourhood diner and bar in the evening, Bar Nina remains proof positive that some venues can be all things to all people.
Duplicating this strategy, the sister duo behind that Darlinghurst success are hoping a similar duel identity will be just as popular up the road in Potts Point. Rosie O'Shea and her sister Rebecca, who was formerly the Director of the Rockpool Dining Group, have taken over the grand mansion Dean's Lounge once called home to launch Arms Length, another day-to-night venue offering breakfast classics from 8am before transitioning into a chic yet relaxed cocktail lounge and late-night eatery after dark.
At the helm in the kitchen is Head Chef Keno Perlas, who boasts stints at Bentley Group's Monopole and Neil Perry's Margaret on his resumé, alongside Executive Chef Jeffrey Sue, formerly of Rockpool, Ormeggio and China Doll. This seasoned pair has created an Italian-leaning, crowd-pleasing menu that is not unlike Arms Length's sister venue in Darlinghurst.
Both the breakfast and evening offerings have been cleverly conceived, marrying broad appeal with affordability. In the morning, easy-to-like options include brekkie buns and french toast loaded with mascarpone and drizzled with a tart berry compote. Upping the ante is one of the most affordable bottomless brunch offers in town: 90 minutes of free-flowing cocktails, including espresso martinis, bloody marys, mimosas or the house speciality, garibaldis made with Australian-made aperitif Rhubi, for just an additional $29 on top of your food order.
In the evening, the menu offers a mixture of cocktail sidekicks — think dressed oysters, anchovy brioche, chicken liver parfait — and a considered selection of mains, including steak frites, beef ragu rigatoni, casarecce with Skull Island prawns and an ever-faithful tiramisu for dessert. Evening diners can also enjoy a steal of a deal: the Supper Soirée. This candlelit dinner package includes a cocktail on arrival and a set menu of chef's favourites paired with wines for just $95.
One of the most distinctive items on the evening menu pays homage to the heritage of Arms Length's Kellert Street address. Jaffles were a fixture of both Dean's Lounge and its forbear, Dean's Cafe, so it's fitting that late night revellers will still be able to enjoy the ooey-gooey delights of these cheese toastie triangles at the venue's latest incarnation. Available from 8am until late (through to 2am on Fridays and Saturday), you can get them filled with ham and mozzarella, four cheeses, or beef brisket and caramelised onions.
To wash them down, Nick Tesar — 2022 Australian Bartender of the Year, Diageo World Class competition — has curated a seasonal signature cocktail list. For those drinking on a shoestring, the Arms Length bar has a cozzie-livs-friendly happy hour, during which house red and white wines will set you back just $8 a glass while select cocktails are a bargain at just $12. Open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night bites, Arms Length is a good bet — for you, and your wallet — no matter what time of day you visit.
