Is Neil Perry's epic new venture all it's cracked up to be?
November 06, 2014
Neil Perry’s new venture, the Burger Project has set out to bring the burger from Rockpool Bar and Grill, considered one of the world's greatest to the hungry masses. He's taking the burger of the Gods and bestowing it upon the people, in other words, Neil Perry is Burger Prometheus.
Designed by architect Grant Cheyne, the Burger Project's sleek modern interior compliments its World Square location. The walls are raw concrete, brushed metal and mirror, which results in a monochrome colour scheme with only low lighting and a few bold feature walls to soften the space. One would be forgiven for feeling like they're dining in some sort of futuristic Japanese carpark — but enough about the décor, it's not called the Wall Project.
Let's cut to the chase. The burgers arrive on a tray in crisp white paper bags, and the first thing you'll notice is that they look super fresh. They're not those shameful late night American style burgers that are currently trending in Sydney. The Burger Project celebrates local and sustainable produce and has created the sort of burgers you wouldn't be ashamed to introduce to your parents.
For the adventurous there's the spicy chicken burger ($8.90) or the caramelized pork belly burger ($9.90), both served with salted chilli, crunchy pickled slaw, and lettuce. But really, there’s no going past the classic cheeseburger ($8.90).
The chefs at the Burger Project are really serious about creating the perfect burger: the patties are ground in house using a combination of whole Cape Grim grass-fed chuck and brisket steak, which has been aged for 36 months. Yes… you read correctly, these patties have been enhancing in deliciousness for the length of an undergrad degree. Said perfect patties are accompanied with crisp lettuce, sweet tomatoes, onions, pickled cucumber, secret sauce and satisfyingly melty cheese on the softest of buns. Oh, and fear not vegetarians! There’s a grilled confit mushroom burger ($12.50) with all the trimmings and top-secret sauce, which is just as delicious!
As for sides, we recommend sharing the golden hand-cut chips ($4.90), which are so legit they still have their skins on. We should also mention they're thrice cooked, because why cook something twice when you can cook it thrice? Don't pass up the crispy hot wings either ($3.50 each), tenderly cloaked in crunchy batter jackets and served with Sichuan salt and pepper or classic hot sauce.
To complete the experience, you can wash it all down with a classic shake ($6.50) — the salted dulce de leche was a highlight, and if you have space for dessert there’s an array ice creams ($4.00 single) which are all churned in house and a handsome list of toppings ($1 each). But if designing your own dessert masterpiece is a little overwhelming, play it safe and opt for the Lamington ($6), Valrhona chocolate ice cream served with raspberry compote and coconut, or the Rocky Road ($7), a delectable tower of chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce, salted peanuts and marshmallow. But be warned, you may have to roll home.