An unassuming inner city spot, Cafe Ella in Darlington is, in fact, one of the city's best spots for bagels. It makes and boils them in-house and serves them up with toppings that are low-key. Try the blueberry or poppyseed bagel with ricotta and jam ($5.50) for a warm and gratifying sweet breakfast — or order the savoury poppyseed bagel ($13) with classic toppings of lox, cream cheese and capers, and a delightful Sydney cafe salad on the side. Elsewhere on the menu, you'll find all the usual suspects, including ricotta pancakes ($9), a big breakfast ($16), toasties ($10) and a BLAT ($9) — but you are really coming here for the boiled boys. Keeping bagel traditions alive but relaxing the stakes, Cafe Ella is an inviting and rewarding lunch spot.