UPDATE: APRIL 28, 2020 — Like many businesses, Flyover Fritterie has adapted during COVID-19. As well as selling meal packs, bottles of its chai and jars of chutney, the CBD hole-in-the-wall is selling DIY kits of its famed vegan fritters and charity meals. All proceeds from its one-litre bowl of dahl goes to food safety charity OzHarvest, while all money from the sale of its totes goes to helping the company's international workers. To order, head on over to the website.

Tucked down the end of Temperance Lane, the CBD's new hole-in-the-wall eatery takes inspiration from India in multiple ways. Sydney's first vegan fritterie and chai bar, its culinary spread will be familiar to fans of the subcontinent's cuisine, obviously. But the cafe's name and setup also nods to Delhi — specifically, to the city's street stalls dotted beneath underpasses.

Flyover Fritterie & Chai Bar co-founder Gunjan Aylawadi grew up in Delhi, so you can expect authenticity, especially where its dishes are concerned. The tiny spot only boasts four food items on its menu, opting for quality over quantity. And, to wash it all down, there's Indian-style all-vegan chai that's made in small batches and served both hot ($3.90) and cold ($4.90).

Traditional pakora fritters are the main attraction, not only made with a crunch — and available gluten-free — but served with homemade tamarind chutney using Aylawadi's grandmother's recipe. Just which vegetables are involved changes according to what's in season; however they're always combined with chickpea flour, spices and herbs, then placed in a small ($9.90) or large ($14.90) cone.

If you'd like your fritters in other dishes, you can tuck into an Indian khichri stew ($12.90), which also features mung beans and quinoa, or opt for a pao burger ($9.90) decked out with pickled beetroot on a soft bun. There's also a salad ($13.90), which comes jam-packed with puffed rice, peanuts, spinach, avocado, tomato, bengal gram, roasted chickpeas, savouries, mint and tamarind chutney.