Homer Rogue Taverna
No white linen, no blue-and-white cliches — Cronulla's ode to the modern Athenian taverna pairs charcoal souvla and home recipes with graffitied walls, terrazzo floors and a walk-up, three-metre wine fridge.
Overview
Strange though it might be to think that one of the world's oldest cities is having a moment nearly three and a half millennia since its recorded history began, Athens has always played by its own rules. And it's the buzzy, no-frills tavernas that line the streets of the modern-day Greek capital — rather than the blue-washed, nautical Cycladic dreamscapes often associated with Greek dining — that are channelled at Homer Rogue Taverna, now open in Cronulla courtesy of brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas of neighbouring brunch favourite Ham.
Much like the city from which it takes its inspiration, Homer zigs where others zag. In contrast to Sydney's slick, white-linen Greek spots, Homer is a deliberately laidback — and pared-back — affair, with a raw contemporary fitout that juxtaposes exposed brick and concrete, chicken wire glass and graffitied walls with elegant mid-century furniture, terrazzo flooring and a rocaro granite chef's counter that frames the stainless steel open kitchen. The 100-seat venue is primarily open for walk-ins — a spot, says Harry, "where you're welcome whether you're still in your thongs after a day at the beach, enjoying a family meal or celebrating a special occasion".
Trent van der Jagt
A similar disregard for the rules is evident in the menu — there are no starters or mains here, but instead a generous lineup of dishes designed to be shared as they're ready. You might begin with loukaniko- and haloumi-topped stone-baked flatbread, manouri cheese baked in kataifi and drizzled in honey or a playful take on stifado, which sees the traditional homestyle stew wrapped in a cigar-shaped chicken skin emulsion. Larger dishes include their mum's moussaka and a spanakorizo served with white fish, while the charcoal souvla — and what's on it — is constantly evolving. For dessert, the house-made mint ice cream with marinated watermelon already feels like a classic in the making.
The open-plan bar, meanwhile, pours a selection of ouzo, creative cocktails (including a $10 martini mouthful) and Homer's Epic Lager, brewed exclusively for the restaurant in partnership with Young Henry's. Signature serves include the See Through Pornstar — a cheeky riff on the classic topped with champagne foam — and the Athenian Punch, a sweet and sour hit of strawberry, rum and citrus. Guests are encouraged to get up and explore the three-metre-tall, custom-built wine fridge stocked mainly with Greek and Australian varietals, including an old-vine savatiano, one of the world's oldest grapes.
Trent van der Jagt
Images: Trent van der Jagt.
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