Jaaks Restaurant and Bar

Overview

Jaaks has entered a new era. The breezy Kyle Bay venue, perched on the edge of the Georges River, has traded its fine-dining roots for something far more casual: a Greek mezedopolio that channels the relaxed rhythm of an evening by the Aegean. Gone are the white tablecloths and formal degustations — in their place: light timbers, linen sails draped from the ceiling and a decidedly laidback feel that invites you to linger over small plates and a cold ouzo.

The menu has been completely reimagined under new Executive Chef Arman Uz (ex-Efendy Group), who first worked at Jaaks after arriving in Sydney in 2017. The rotating selection of around 20 mezedes and mini souvlakia — cooked over charcoal on a hibachi — is heavily rooted in homestyle Greek and Cypriot classics, but with clever twists that draw on flavours from across the Med. Octopus, for example, sits on a bed of gigantes and chermoula, butterflied king prawn is glazed with an ouzo bisque and brussels sprouts are given a lift with eggplant, tahini and molasses.

Souvlakia, meanwhile, range from the traditional — chicken thigh is brushed with lemon and oregano — to the more inventive — salmon belly replaces the usual pork in the classic Cypriot sheftalies, which are topped with smoked salt, mustard mayo and dill. Lesser-known cuts, like a date syrup-glazed ox tongue, reflect the kitchen's nose-to-tail ethos, while vegetarian options, like cabbage finished with gochujang, walnut and molasses, also feature.

Rounding out the offering are daily house-baked breads, served simply with sea salt and oregano or topped with rotating combinations such as tomato and garlic or haloumi and honey, plus a drinks list designed for kicking back. Greek wines and cocktails lead the charge — try the ouzo-spiked martini or the bright Lemonada, a mix of gin, cucumber and homemade lemonade. There's also an impressive collection of ouzo and tsipouro for slower sipping.

Owners and siblings George Christodoulou and Diana Valsamis say the shift from Jaaks' more formal offer reflects how Sydney diners want to eat today: it's social and spontaneous rather than structured, with an approachable, ever-evolving menu and dedicated space for walk-ins next to the 40-seat dining room. The result is a spot that feels equal parts local hangout and summer escape — and just right for its prime riverside location.