Fatcow on James St

Overview

Fatcow was a beef-eating favourite in its original digs at Eagle Street Pier — and the aim is to repeat the feat now that it has moved to Fortitude Valley. It was back in late 2023 that Tassis Group announced that Fatcow on James Street, which was known as Fatcow Steak & Lobster during its CBD days, would return in 2024. It lost its previous site, where it had operated since December 2020 in the spot that was formerly home to fellow upscale steak joint Cha Cha Char, when the Brisbane CBD precinct was torn down to make way for an upcoming new $2.1-billion waterfront precinct.

Now, since May 2024, the new Fatcow is welcoming in patrons. The restaurant has relaunched in the Fortitude Valley spot that Space Furniture and David Jones each used to call home. The design led by Allo Creative and Clui Design harks back to steak-slinging eateries in the mid-20th century, complete with a bar made out of solid marble. Patrons can also peer through a window to the chef's grill to see where the culinary magic happens.

Two private dining rooms are also on the premises at Fatcow 2.0, but just eating at a booth here means stepping into your own world. Each one comes with a floor-to-ceiling curtain that screens off the rest of the restaurant.

That's another luxe touch at the steakhouse's new digs. Also on the list: wagyu tasting boards and a gold-wrapped 400-gram rib fillet on the menu. Neither comes cheap; the first costs $285 for three types of steak and three sides, and the second — aka the Golden Fatcow — is $190 for a 150-plus-day grain-fed black angus cut from the Riverina region that's wrapped in gold leaf.

Under Head Chef Garry Newton, a Fatcow alum who also has Herve's and Rich & Rare on his resume, the new Fatcow's signature dishes also span a $199 steak-and-lobster combo and the butcher's choice, which varies in price. If it wasn't already apparant, this is a treat yo'self type of restaurant.

All up, the menu features more than 16 steaks. You can also tuck into mains such as wagyu burgers, buckwheat risotto and lamb shoulder. Caviar is among the options, as are oysters fresh from Brisbane's only live oyster tank, raw scallops and beef tenderloin tartare as entrees, and tank-fresh lobster. The restaurant is taking a 24-hour approach to seafood — that's how long, maximum, the journey from the trawler to your plate will be.

As for dessert, choices include a chocolate tart, lime sorbet and basque cheesecake, plus ten cheeses that come served in 50-gram pieces. To drink, a 300-strong wine list combines local and international drops, and cocktails are also among the beverages.

Images: Markus Ravik.