For a city that loves its central waterway, Brisbane has long ignored the Howard Smith Wharves. Since the 60s, the once-thriving spot along the Fortitude Valley stretch of the Brisbane River has been left to languish — but that's been changing, with the heritage-listed riverside site now boasting 3.4 hectares of public space, complete with a hotel, a bevy of bars and a range of restaurants. Greca is leading the charge.

The first Brisbane venture from restaurateur Jonathan Barthelmess, Greca is a Greek taverna with an old-meets-new atmosphere. That suits both the Howard Smith Wharves precinct and Greca's place in Barthelmess' overall portfolio. While the Sydney-based chef has two other Greek eateries to his name — both called The Apollo, with locations in Sydney and Tokyo — Greca carves out its own niche. It shares a heritage with its predecessors, and a selection of menu items as well, and yet remains its own creation.

Nestled into one of the best spots in the city, every aspect of Greca has been designed to capitalise upon the restaurant's scenic location and Brisbane's sultry climate. Settle in for a shared dinner, duck in for a casual lunch or pop by for an after-work drink — and whichever you choose, a relaxed Mediterranean-inspired space, river views, a seafood-heavy menu, and both indoor and outdoor seating all await.

Images: Nikki To.