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By Erina Starkey
October 15, 2014

Pub Life Kitchen — CLOSED

The Lord Wolseley Hotel's beloved burger crew.
By Erina Starkey
October 15, 2014

It's been two long years since Pub Life Kitchen last served their legendary menu of 'BRGRS' at the Macquarie Hotel. Their burger experiments became famous. Every Wednesday a new weird and wonderful burger was conceived, pushing the boundaries of bun fillings right to the edge. You'll be pleased to know: they're back. The BRGR tradition continues at the Lord Wolseley Hotel and you'd be CRZY to miss it.

The Lord Wolseley Hotel is a timeless old pub dating back to 1881. Located in the oft-forgotten city suburb of Ultimo, it's a quiet location so you won't be disturbed if you choose to sit at the outside tables on the beautiful park promenade right at its door.

The back room of the hotel is where Pub Life Kitchen has set up shop. It's a simple canteen with chequered tablecloths, bench seats and an honest pub menu to match. Don't be disconcerted by the sticky hot wangs ($9); they are wings (phew), delicious, sweet and sticky as promised. The cheesy polenta chips ($8) come as six fat fingers, perfectly crisp on the outside with a soft, eggy centre — although the jalapeno mayonnaise was disappointingly mild.

When I mentioned this to the waiter, he gave me the bird — the house-made chicken burger, that is. The Bird ($18) is filled with a hunk of crispy fried chicken, coated in Doritos corn chip crumbs and sandwiched with red cabbage slaw, jack cheese and a slather of mayonnaise. It's mighty big and tasty; everything you could ever want in a pub meal.

The classic cheeseburger ($17) is also exemplary. Two slices of melted Jack cheese fuse pickles together with a flavoursome house-ground meat patty. The cheeseburger ($17) and the OG burger ($18) both serve their meat patties medium-rare; it's a brave move but ensures the beef is deliciously tender and moist.

The dessert special for the evening, the Snickers Sundae ($12), sees Snickers gelato covered in gooey dulce de leche, salted peanuts and, wait for it, pork crackle. It's every bit as delicious as it sounds, possibly more.

From 6pm on Wednesdays, the burger experiments continue. Forget tomato and lettuce and start thinking crispy chicken skin and grilled pineapple. If you're bold, brave and love burgers, be there. Sunday marks another event in the Pub Life Kitchen calendar, 'Parkmeats', a classic union of meat in the park, BYO blanket.

With a weekly event schedule and BRGRS that can't be beat, Pub Life Kitchen puts the fun back in the bun.

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