Alice in Wonderland was someone who couldn't resist an invitation on a cake to "eat me" or a bottle to "drink me". Like author Lewis Carroll, the people behind the new bar and restaurant Rabbit Hole want to promote indulgence.

Whether that's a jelly gin cocktail or a carmelised bass groper, these rabbits have taken over the former Club Europa venue in Elizabeth Street's legal district to hold court.

Down a flight of stairs is what the owners want to evolve into a New York-style eatery, a late-night diner where patrons stay on to drink into the wee hours. Divided into two bar areas, the bunny murals look down on a basement bar where the modern French food is prepared by chef Tomoyuki Usui, formerly of L'Astrance in France and Wagu in Crows Nest.

Entrees veer from seared scallops ($14) to an updated French standard, the wagyu tartare with truffle meringue ($14). The menu certainly is more fine dining than bar menu, catering to the nearby legal crowd while also targeting hipsters with an inventive cocktail menu.

The mains are deconstructed and have the obligatory "smear" of pureed whatever encircling the main ingredient. Served up on smart black slate plates, they're a carefully arranged smattering of thinly sliced veggies and spots of puree around the centrepieces of roasted sirloin with braised chickpeas ($27) or pork loin with lemon and sugar snaps ($26), for example.

Down the rabbit hole is a pleasing journey into French cuisine, fuelled by cocktails that will send you to la-la land.