Sydney's Best New Restaurants of 2016
Honouring the best new arrivals on Sydney's restaurant scene this year.
Sydney's Best New Restaurants of 2016
Honouring the best new arrivals on Sydney's restaurant scene this year.
In a year that saw Sydney's cultural ecosystem and the legislative shackling of certain elements of it become a more polarising subject than ever before, the city's most innovative, forward-thinking residents have made outstanding lemonade.
More inventive, forward-thinking and experimental than ever, Sydney restaurants have defied traditional fine dining, adding in-house cinemas, recreating provincial French manors, and redefining nose-to-tail. At Concrete Playground we encourage exploration and showcase innovation in our city every day, so we thought it fitting to reward those most talented whippersnappers pushing Sydney to be a better, braver city. And so, these six new restaurants, opened in 2016, have been nominated for Best New Restaurant in Concrete Playground's Best of 2016 Awards.
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The Passage used to be the realm of Presets listening parties and deep, deep house. But like the people who used to frequent The Passage, the space has grown up (a little). Now, you’ll find fresh beige walls, warm glowing service bars, imperfect ceramic plates, Fugees on rotation and one of the most unique, fun French menus in Sydney. You’d need a real expert to pull that kind of transition off. Luckily, this isn’t the ACME team’s first time at the rodeo.
Opened on Victoria Street in April, Bar Brosé is the newest French-focused eatery from the ACME team — and the logical progression for the former Passage space. Head Chef Analiese Gregory, formerly of Quay, is at the helm. It’s a mature (but not old ‘n’ fusty) space for all walks; somewhere you can make your way through a measured, unpretentious cocktail list on a killer date, somewhere to share conversation-generating dishes with a small group, or somewhere for hardcore foodies yearning for something new and satisfying.
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5
Fine dining is dead. Long live fine dining. Never has this contradictory sentiment been truer than at Eleven Bridge. Neil Perry himself tried to shake the caviar off the white tablecloth with a good ol’ flick of the restaurant rebrand wrist, but even though it’s lost the Rockpool name (which seems to make sense now that Perry has sold his Rockpool Group to UPG) and done away with the set menu, the restaurant basically as refined as ever. It seems fine dining is what this site is destined to do.
There’s barely a bar in Sydney as dimly lit as the 11 Bridge Street venue; the individual table lights provide light to diners in an otherwise all-black (walls and roof included) dining room. And it’s the obvious standing of the venue in Sydney’s food history — along with the pretty much flawless overall dining experience — that makes it worth a visit, even if there are plenty of other great restaurants doing amazing food for not quite as intimidating a price. While its dining pool may be somewhat restricted to those on six-figure salaries and 20th wedding anniversary dates, Eleven Bridge seems to proves there is a place for fine dining in Sydney even when the city is forecasting its funeral.
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Paddington’s latest haunt Fred’s is testament to Justin and Bettina Hemmes’ pioneering eating and drinking vision. In an industry severely threatened by Sydney’s hotly contested lockout laws, this famed brother and sister duo has a knack for winning over the crowds — seemingly no matter what the circumstance. That, folks, is the Merivale brand.
Regardless of brand or pedigree though, Fred’s is worth our time. It’s a venue that offers us three unique experiences wrapped up into one wholesome night of farm-to-table fun. Stylist Amanda Talbot (The Paddington, The Newport) and design crew Acme & Co have done a sterling job at creating distinct areas designed to enhance particular experiences. Head chef Danielle Alvarez’s cooking army flits between pans and plates. Alvarez’s creds? Most notably Berkley’s Chez Panisse and Napa Valley’s The French Laundry. Her food philosophy at Fred’ is all about sustainable produce from the people who farm it served by an enthusiastic team passionate about elevating your dining experience.
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Back in the Middle Ages, a disparate and diverse group of Muslim peoples migrated widely through northern Africa and western Europe, bringing traditionally Middle Eastern influences (saffron, almonds, spices) with them to the continent. It’s an influence that continues today in the rich world of Moorish cooking, and this cross-cultural approach provides the template for chef Nathan Sasi’s seasonal menu at Mercado.
Previously head chef at the acclaimed Nomad and co-creator of ice creamery Good Times, Sasi’s approach blends fine dining finesse with a love of the rustic and a real hands-on approach. The restaurant does all their pickling, curing and smoking on-site and combines fresh produce with a modern, agreeably loose take on Moorish and Spanish food.
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They did it again. The winning streak continued with Restaurant Hubert, the first full-service restaurant from the Swillhouse Group, known for their elaborately themed drinking dens, The Baxter Inn, Frankie’s and Shady Pines Saloon.
From the moment you open the door, Hubert will hurtle you headfirst into a C.S. Lewis-style adventure, taking you from dreary Bligh Street to the resplendent old-world opulence of post-war Paris. It’s like an adult’s version of Narnia, only this time there’s steak and wine.
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Located on Oxford Street, Saint Peter is a sardine tin-sized venue, a former sushi train site that was completely gutted to reveal original convict bricks and pock-marked sandstone walls. The seafood-only restaurant seats just 34, and tables seat two bookings per night with many more turned away at the door. Clearly the locals are hooked — and after an evening dining here it’s not hard to see why.
More than just a gimmick, head chef Josh Niland (ex-Fish Face, Café Nice and est.) and wife Julie chose the fish-focussed theme to introduce Sydneysiders to the world of sustainable seafood and encourage them to cast their net a little wider than the usual Atlantic salmon and tiger prawns. Niland is also a passionate nose-to-tail cook and Saint Peter’s menu makes use of the whole fish, from the liver to the scales, offal, bladder and roe.
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