Overview
There will always be a place for burrito-centric, cheese-smothered, fast-casual Tex-Mex — may foil-wrapped logs of spicy meat, guac and beans ever be our hangover saviour. However, courtesy of an influx of authentic, regionally specific diners across the city, Sydneysiders can now afford to be a little more discerning when it comes to their choice of Mexican fare.
The latest addition to this more sophisticated cohort of Mexican restaurants is Gitano, a refined yet easy-going fondita in Double Bay. Led by Head Chef Alvaro 'Clark' Valenzuela, formerly of Potts Point mezcal bar and eatery Chula, the menu heroes dishes popular in Mexico City, Oaxaca, Puebla, the Yucatán Peninsula and Mexico's coastal regions, with an emphasis on share plates and traditional techniques.
While there are familiar favourites on offer, there's nothing run of the mill about Valenzuela's vision. A selection of crudos includes the ever-ubiquitous kingfish, and also scallop aguachile and wagyu tartare. Sauces are house-made using imported Mexican dried chillies and spices, including the all-important dip for the slow-cooked grass-fed beef birria tacos and the rich, earthy reduction for the free-range pollo con mole.
Valenzuela is not only drawing on the skills that he's perfected in the kitchens of his native Mexico City — talents he has also put to good use in a number of Sydney's South American establishments including Alegre Bar and Dining and Bodega1904. His dishes also draw on the deeply personal, taking inspiration from his Abuelita.
"She taught me that everything in life should be done with love, and that includes cooking. There's a lot of love in everything I create — from a simple taco to a more complex dish. I hope that Gitano guests will be able to taste the passion I have for Mexican food," Valenzuela says.
But what Mexican meal would be complete without a slug (or several) of tequila or mezcal? In addition to its dining room, Gitano features its own spacious cocktail lounge where the bar team mixes up multiple riffs on the ever-popular margarita alongside a selection of agave-based signature cocktails, while a soundtrack of Latin-Afro house music gets the party started. There's even a VIP bottle service on offer for those who really want to make a night of it (and have cash to splash), complete with dedicated wait staff, a reserved booth and top-shelf booze.
Gitano's arrival in Double Bay is yet another feather in the cap of this ascendant hospitality enclave. In addition to its established stalwarts like Neil Perry's Margaret and popular pub The Golden Sheaf, a glut of new openings, including Tanuki and Bartiga and Perry's new Asian concept Song Bird, have put Bay and Cross Streets back on the map as one of the most up-and-coming dining destinations in inner Sydney. However, Gitano's 3am licence and 200-patron-capacity lounge space are adding an extra dimension to this local hospo hub, making it not only a go-to for quality dining, but also a nightlife hotspot to boot.
Find Gitano at Shop 2/53 Cross Street, Double Bay — open 5–10.30pm Tuesday–Thursday, 5pm–3am Friday and midday–3am Saturday. Head to the venue's website for more details.
Images: Kitti Gould.