Overview
The ever-popular Kitchen by Mike has long left Rosebery's Cannery precinct, with Mike McInearney moving to the CBD instead, but the team behind Koskela design store aren't going to let the shared warehouse space go to waste. Instead, they've repurposed the space themselves as a brand new restaurant.
Meet Koskela Kitchen. Bright, airy and plush, the warehouse feel of KBM was swept out along with the canteen style service. "Canteen style is reaching the end of its lifespan," says co-owner Sasha Titchkosky. She started the design-loving business with partner Russel Koskela five years ago, during which time KBM took on a life of its own. The redesign allowed the duo to realise their original vision for the space, one that very much mimics what Koskela is all about — keeping it natural and local.
Part-greenhouse, part-warehouse, the interior is "a more pleasant space for diners — relaxing, open, not as frenetic," according to Titchkosky. Ceiling fans and plants hang from the exposed rafters along with large wicker basket lights. The original concrete slab flooring remains and the spattered walls are intact, purposefully showing the age of the building — over a century old.
The garden, a vast departure from the industrial street, is fully replanted with edible seeds, leaves and nuts for use in the kitchen. The herbs aren't the only garden item being used on the menu; honey from the rooftop is used in the grilled lamb ribs ($18) — think juicy, succulent, fall-off-the-bone goodness — and the grilled asparagus ($12.50). The muntries used in Koskela's wonderful crackling pork dish ($22.50) are from the garden as well, as is the kitchen vinegar, made from home-grown verbena.
Koskela Kitchen's menu is seasonal, served up from the bustling open kitchen, with Mike Box behind the helm (Momofuku, Nomad). Yes, another Mike, but his menu is a complete departure from KBM. The fresh, bright ingredients well mimic the clean, crisp space. The dishes are simple with a fancy twist — a duck egg omelette with smoked eel ($15 - $18) and an avocado toastie with sesame nori ($13.50) sits alongside brekkie classics like croissant with jam ($5.50 - $5.80) and crumpets ($12). Overall, the menu is inventive, unusual, and best of all, great for sharing.
Koskela aren't about to leave you thirsty either, with an all-Australian wine menu is also carefully selected to complimenting the food. The Swinging Bridge #003 amber wine ($12/$55) is the colour of summer and pairs well with the Hawkesbury squid ($21), which in itself is bright, beautifully plated and impeccably fresh. With local craft beers rotating on the taps, this place is local through and through.
The Cannery precinct will continue to expand, with a butcher, Greek restaurant and cafe already in the works for the block. The like-minded restaurateurs will be incorporating Australian, home-grown ingredients wherever possible, and a boozy brunch at Koskela Kitchen is our number one reason to visit.
Koskela Kitchen is located at 1/85 Dunning Ave, Rosebery; open Mon – Fri 7.30am – 4pm and Sat – Sun 8am – 4pm, with the possibility of extending to dinner hours in summer months.
Image: Benedict Torrefranca.