Bar Infinita

Overview

It's easy to overlook Sydney's upper North Shore as a dining destination but Bar Infinita is looking to change that. The hot Italian spot opened in Gordon in March 2024, setting up on St Johns Avenue just off the Pacific Highway.

Bar Infinita offers Italian fare that combines traditional methods with modern creativity, all championed by head chef Francesco Iervolino (formerly of Firedoor and Ormeggio). There may be a pizza oven here, but there's not a slice to be found on the menu. Instead, the oven is put to use cooking steaks over wood embers and there's more than enough handmade pasta and antipasti treats to make up for the lack of doughy delights.

Ease into things with oysters served with limoncello granita and finger lime or a crunchy-yet-tender short rib croquette with tarragon aioli. The charred squid with corn, jalapeño and saltbush is the smoky hit you need to warm up for mains.

There are six homemade pasta dishes to choose between — our pick is the mafaldine with a slow-cooked beef and pork ragu. For something more substantial, there are three types of steaks cooked over coals and served with mushroom puree, caramelised baby onion, kale and rosemary jus. The Hampshire Down lamb rump with spiced carrot puree and salsa verde is a delight — the lamb is locally sourced and boasts a marble score, which is exceedingly rare for lamb.

If you've made it this far without collapsing into a food coma, it's time for dessert. Nonna's tiramisu is nothing short of spectacular — creamy, just the right amount of sweet, and scooped out of the tray right in front of you for an added touch of theatre.

If you have an eye for decor, you won't be disappointed. Giant Design Consultants (Rengaya, North Sydney & Oborozuki, Circular Quay) is behind the design intended to transport diners to laidback aperitivo hours in Italy. There are deep burgundy and cream tiles complemented by wooden accents and brass touches, while family pictures on the walls add to the approachable and homely character. Top tip: during winter, outdoor diners will be given an extremely fluffy blanket to keep warm.

Images: Chad Konik