Bistro Grenier

Overview

Since it opened in late 2021, Odd Culture's ferment-forward wine bar and diner on King Street has been a cornerstone of Newtown's hospitality scene. Then came Spon, in mid-2023 — a hybrid bar and bottle shop specialising in craft brews, boutique drops and pours by the glass. In February this year, the Odd Culture team — who also operate beloved Sydney pubs The Old Fitz and The Duke of Enmore — added kooky late-night cocktail den Pleasure Club to their Newtown empire. Now, a fourth venture has been added, transforming the mezzanine of the King Street flagship into an elevated bistro — and it's not just another cookie-cutter steak frites joint. Bistro Grenier is a refined spot for an intimate soirée, where diners can experience classic French fare at its best.

To realise this new venue, Odd Culture has tapped the skills of Executive Chef James MacDonald — formerly of Sydney's Restaurant Hubert and London's pioneering nose-to-tail eatery St John. MacDonald has developed a menu that celebrates traditional recipes while adding modern flourishes, leaning on heartier, rustic dishes showcasing low-waste butchering.

For example, the côtelette de porc features a juicy Berkshire pork chop served alongside braised boneless trotters, dressed with prunes and served with a side of sugar loaf cabbage, while the house-made boudin noir uses yet more of the beast, pairing smoked pork jowl and pigs blood with caramelised apples and a lightly whipped pomme puree.

Other dishes offer more playful riffs on tricolore favourites, like the pudding chômeur — a self-saucing maple syrup dessert finished with buttermilk ice cream inspired by Head Chef Jesse Warkentin's Canadian heritage.

Vino-philes have plenty to get excited about. A list of French drops including vintage gems and rare allocation bottles from Odd Culture's extensive cellar are available exclusively in the bistro. There's also be a range of Gallic digestives and apéritifs behind the bar, including ricard pastis, picon bière aperitif, vin jaune and chartreuse.

The fitout of what was formerly an underutilised loft storage space channels a luxurious yet bohemian vibe, with deep burgundy peaked ceilings and walls, dark timber panelling, and a moody lighting design summons the sultry spirit of Parisian salon. Meanwhile, fans of the King Street OG have nothing to fear. The existing downstairs wine bar remains the pillar of Newtown's drinking scene Sydneysiders know and love.

Images: Philip Huyhn