Overview
Surry Hills has landed a new Taiwanese social-dining bar housed in a quaint converted Victorian terrace. The venue, Linla, is built around the ritual of 'raising a glass together' and named for the sound and feeling shared between friends doing just that — a moment of celebration and connection that defines the spirit of the restaurant.
Behind the new venue is Taiwanese-born restaurateur and bartender Charles Chang. He is also responsible for the neighbouring Japanese fusion restaurant Moku, and was formerly a proud finalist in the Top 100 Diageo World Class Competition. "Linla isn't about one culture or one cuisine. It's about the moment when people raise their glasses together. That sound, that feeling – that's what we wanted to build the entire space around," says Chang.
With Moku, Chang demonstrated his restraint and discipline, and now with Linla, he has an opportunity to present a more playful, community-led expression of Taiwanese street culture and food. The kitchen is led by Head Chef Montien Thipwongsa, whose passion for cooking began in his grandmother's kitchen. While influenced by Thai flavours, the pan-Asian concept of Linla gives the chefs freedom to experiment beyond traditions.
The share-style menu is bold and creative, featuring vibrant dishes such as wagyu beef tartare with scallion pancake and yuzu olive oil, Tiger Prawn salad with tropical fruits and chilli fish sauce, and grilled scallops with green chilli nuoc cham. Hero dishes include the Cha Cha Cha chicken with corn ribs, avocado puree and fermented chilli oil, and the playful Night-Market Crispy Chicken, where crunchy chicken bites are shaken in a paper bag at your table with Szechuan seasoning, garlic chips and basil.
Chang has designed an easy-drinking menu of fresh and fruity cocktails such as the Pine and Bloom with pineapple mead, elderflower, dry vermouth and MSG saline, and the Tomato Salad 2.0 with tequila, tomato, ume salt and ginger soda. Don't miss the MI-Bubble, a cheeky take on bubble tea with aged rum, Earl Grey, English Breakfast, black sugar, small tapioca, Milo, and milk. And make sure you tap into your dessert stomach to make space for the fairy bread bao — a modern take on a nostalgic classic.
Images: Supplied.
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