Overview
Like any great metropolis, Sydney is growing exponentially, and the hustle and bustle of urban life never seems to slow down. While there's something soothing about the commotion of everyday life, sometimes even the most seasoned city slickers among us need time for quiet — a break from the noise and a little respite from the chaos.
So next time you find a free day during the week, or manage a few hours at the very least, here's a compass guide to some of Sydney's quiet places. Places where you're well advised to switch off your phone, pull out your headphones and whittle away the hours doing sweet nothing at all.
Whether it's a secluded park to enjoy the sound of birds chirping or an off-the-beaten-path trail to ponder life's big questions, Sydney has it all.
Destination NSW
NORTH
While its beaches make Sydney glitter, it's the harbour which makes it sing, and there is no more satisfying way to explore it than by ferry. Catching a ferry just about anywhere across Port Jackson is highly advisable, but the trip over to Taronga Zoo wharf, while short, is especially enchanting.
Once there, skip the tigers and the capybaras and cut along the track into Sydney Harbour National Park along Bradley's Head. On a quiet day, you'll find no other company than the sound of the sea and a few flighty lizards and brush turkeys. The views of the city are unrivalled and the plaques along the trail paint a storied history of a country at war.
Follow along until Chowder Bay where you can strip down and bathe in the sea, and then reward yourself at Ripples. For perfect solitude, opt out of the fine dining and enjoy a glass of prosecco and oysters on the balcony. Return the same way and arrive back at the Quay feeling a decade lighter.
Alternative itineraries: Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park; Whale Beach; The Manly Ferry.
Destination NSW
WEST
Leaving the harbour for the glory of the railways, the rattling, purple train to the Blue Mountains is about as romantic as a commuter train gets. Rising out of Emu Plains, the Blue Mountains rail line is one of the great engineering feats of 19th-century Australia. The current fleet of trains dates back decades and it'll be a sad day when they're eventually replaced by the more modern, and less charming, fleet in waiting.
But for now, they're here, and when boarding one at Central be sure to stock up on snacks and take a seat in one of the two quiet carriages. As you leave Sydney be prepared for spectacular views as you approach the towns of Lapstone and Glenbrook. If there's been recent rain you may even spy a momentary waterfall.
Once in the mountains, there are literally hundreds of different tracks you can take, although some of the more isolated places are reachable only by car.
For rolling hills and imposing valleys, where there is often no one else, do the thirty-minute drive or the three-hour walk to Mount Hay from Leura. With low-lying scrub and a cavernous sky, there is a kind of land-before-time feel here, which can be quite overwhelming. Alternatively, for ethereal sunset vibes, make your way to Boars Head Lookout and lose yourself gazing over the Megalong Valley. Stay at The Carrington in Katoomba for a solid dose of nostalgia and a few quiet cocktails by the fireplace.
Alternative itineraries: Bicentennial Park; Lake Parramatta; Wianamatta Regional Park.
David Molloy Photography via Flickr
SOUTH
Conveniently located just minutes from Cronulla Station, the Curranulla, Port Hacking's beloved and historic ferry, is another brilliant way to explore Sydney's waterways. Dating back to 1939, a trip on Sydney's oldest running ferry is akin to experiencing the Sydney your grandparents might have known. Arriving in Bundeena, take a stroll along Horderns Beach before swinging by Vinegar and Brown Paper for some of the best fish and chips in the south.
Then, time and weather permitting, begin the 11km walk to Marley Beach. The track itself can be quite muddy at certain times of the year but if you walk in the off-season you'll find plenty of solitude to soak up. The Royal National Park is a naturalist's dream so keep an eye out for white-breasted sea eagles, swamp wallabies and if you're especially charmed, short-beaked echidnas. Arriving at Marley Beach you'll do as you please — read a book, take a nap or lose yourself in the sea. Or nothing at all.
Not far north of the beach, you'll find Wedding Cake Rock, a spectacular lookout where a glimpse of a breaching whale is almost a given between May and November. Follow the track back towards Bundeena, and enjoy the setting sun as you drift on back aboard the Curranulla.
Alternative itineraries: Darook Park; The Grand Pacific Drive; Kamay Botany National Park.
Shark Island, John Yurasek/DPIE
EAST
Returning to our beloved harbour, the perfect way to explore it in solitude is by hiring a kayak at one of two locations at Rose Bay. If you're in need of some turquoise tranquillity, then make your way to either Point Piper Kayak or Rose Bay Aquatic Hire. Once on the water, paddle at your leisure as you explore the numerous inlets and coves around the bay itself.
Discover one of the most isolated spots on the harbour by landing at Shark Island, which, despite its ominous name, is the perfect place for a swim. Dry off exploring the rocks and cliff faces while keeping an eye out for pelicans, pied cormorants and the impossibly elusive little penguin. After a well-earned siesta, continue your paddle over to Queens Beach which, on a weekday, is nearly always deserted.
Enjoy the sunset with some smuggled wine as the city lights up and the sky fades away. Return your kayak and wander along the foreshore before dropping by the Rose Bay Hotel for a quiet schooner.
Alternative itineraries: Hornby Lighthouse; Cape Banks Walking Track; Centennial Parklands.
Installation view of the 'Streeton' exhibition at Art Gallery of New South Wales, Sydney. Photo: Jenni Carter, AGNSW
CENTRE
While nature is synonymous with solitude it doesn't have to define it, and in the pulsating, furious heart of Sydney's CBD there are plenty of opportunities to drown out the noise. Start with a walk through the Royal Botanic Gardens, once Australia's first European settled farm, today it's a world-class botanical garden with spectacular species such as the Wollemi Pine.
After exploring the lush greenery and succulent garden, take the Mrs Macqaurie Rd exit and enter the Art Gallery of NSW. During the week the gallery is less crowded and it's not unusual to find yourself in a hall all alone, with the works of Australian artists like Brett Whitley and Margaret Olley and international names like Picasso, Francis Bacon and William Blake your only company.
After an hour or two, continue your afternoon with a stroll through historic Darlinghurst and drop into somewhere for a drink. There's a healthy amount of bars in Darlo, and while none of them are particularly quiet you're bound to find a corner to yourself. We'd suggest Shady Pines Saloon, a low-lit cowboy joint with premium whiskeys and a soundtrack designed to let the feet tap and the mind wander. As the city swells around you, sometimes the best place to disappear is amongst the crowd as you watch the world go by.
Alternative itineraries: Cockatoo Island; Sydney Park; Camperdown Cemetery.
Images: Destination NSW