Overview
Hitting New Zealand for the weekend isn't as much of a faraway adventure as it seems — the flight's just over three hours from Sydney, Melbourne or Brisbane. That's almost similar to visiting Canberra or Byron, and there's better wine at the end. New Zealand's capital is brimming with more contemporary, creative restaurants, microroasteries, buzzing cafes and of course, craft breweries than you can poke a wizard's staff at. Every (outrageously friendly) taxi driver will tell you that that city has more cafes, bars and restaurants per capita than New York City — and they're on the money.
Hop an easy flight from Melbourne/Sydney to the Harbour Capital and spend an easy weekend on the waterfront, wandering through street art-filled laneways, tasting the world's most gloriously creative craft beer, learning up on ever-fascinating Māori history, and feasting on some serious food.
EAT
You'd have to try pretty hard to find a bad coffee in Wellington. The city runs rife with microroasteries and no-nonsense baristas churning out killer coffees by the minute. Wander down the street art-plastered areas of Eva Street and Hannah's Factory Laneway in search of a freshly brewed cup o' joe. Stop by Leeds Street Bakery, a teeny tiny glass-and-brick-walled joint for a piccolo from their mates Red Rabbit Coffee Co., and do not leave here without snapping up one of their famously insane salted caramel cookies. They're not pretty but they'll make you involuntarily make noises at strangers. Look at this:
Locals will constantly send you to a formerly dreary multi-car garage that's now a bustling corner cafe, dubbed The Hangar. Run by local coffee roasters Flight Coffee, The Hangar serves up kickass coffee made from Costa Rican beans from the family-run Herbazu estate. Huddle over your own cup of joe and take in the ahmbiahnce, or get pesky and ask the crew about the roasting process. Ghuznee Street's Milk Crate and Customs Brew Bar are also worth visiting, as are our six favourite coffee bars on Concrete Playground Wellington.
Now you're well caffeinated, let's head for something a little more hearty. Wellington has one heck of a dining scene, a combination of perpetually high quality produce and young, dynamic restaurateurs. Try your luck and wait for a table at Charley Noble in Post Office Square. A seafood bar and steak specialist with a penchant for woodfired cooking ('Charley Noble' was the sailors' name for the ship's galley chimney), this busy, busy restaurant has been the talk of the town since opening in 2014 — and features New Zealand's first Zesti woodfired chargrill and rotisserie.
Looking for something a little more modern and fusion-based? Head for Egmont Street Eatery. Tucked down a regular ol' laneway off Dixon Street, this former carpark space does modern New Zealand/Asian fusion with a fresh, seasonal approach and casually excellent service — and they won Wellington on a Plate's highly coveted Burger Wellington comp in 2015. They'll happily match your lunch with one of Wellington's top notch craft beers or a slam dunk of a New Zealand wine. Try the miso salmon salad with cos, nam jim (a traditional Thai sauce) and herbs ($25), and wash it down with 'The Don', a hefty, sediment-filled white that your waiter will probably recommend you try before you buy. The Don doesn't suit every palate.
Also worth visiting? Mark Keddell and chef Sean Marshall's The Matterhorn on buzzy Cuba Street, seasonally-focused (and wine-happy) restaurant Floraditas, wholesome, hearty brunch spot Loretta, award-winning chef Mark Limacher's Ortega fish shack, the Boon brothers' beloved Manners Street cafe/bar Crumpet, New York-inspired deli/diner Five Boroughs, and Eastern Asian modern dining spot and cocktail bar Ancestral.
Eating on a budget? Check out our feature on seven days of cheap eats in Wellington.
DRINK
Let's test out that theory, the big bragging right that the city has more bars per capita than New York City. If you head into the city's nightlife/entertainment district, Courtenay Place on a Friday night, you'll find the area packed with young'uns heading to the area's rowdy Irish pubs, rock and roll bars and licensed late-night eateries. But Wellington's not just serving up any ol' tipples in its plethora of watering holes.
Let's start with something for the beer lovers — Wellington is New Zealand's craft beer capital after all. Find your way to an old petrol station in Aro Valley that's now brimming with award-winning beer. You've found one of Wellington's very best craft breweries, The Garage Project. Since 2011, this well-publicised crew have gained the rep as the rock stars of the NZ craft beer scene. They gained quite the hype early on when they released 24 beers in 24 weeks, and have been working just as boldly and experimentally since. They opened their own cellar door within the brewery in March 2013, where you can have a mad chat and taste the latest batches on tap — everything from the best-selling (and bloody delicious) Garagista, to the out-there Umami Monster, Cereal Milk Stout and Ziggy's Carrot Cake. They've even just opened their own bar, GP 91 Aro, just down the road.
To keep on the craft beer trail, head for the Parrotdog and Black Dog Brew Co. breweries or head for craft beer bars like Fork & Brewer, Little Beer Quarter, Golding's Free Dive, The Rogue and Vagabond, Bebemos, Hop Garden, The Malthouse or Hashigo Zake.
Hawthorn Lounge.
Finished your beer? Let's get a little more botanical with your next beverage. Wellington's home to one heck of a mixologist population, with some of the best cocktail bars in the global game. Head to Hawthorn Lounge if you really want to get straight to the good stuff. Managed by all round legend Peter Lowry, this cosy little '30s-style speakeasy is hidden away from rowdy Courtenay Place. Snuggle into a Chesterfield lounge by the fireplace, or pull up a pew at the dimly lit bar and choose from one of the bar's staples — up high for a Chocolate Negroni — or roll the dice on a special edition experiment — bar wizard Jamie co-curates this with Peter.
If you're a cocktail fiend, also worth checking out are cocktail bar/alchemist den CGR (Cocktails Gin Rum) on Courtenay Place, Te Aro's award-winning Cuban bar and tapas hideaway Havana Bar, Tory Street's Spanish-inspired Poquito, and beloved Leeds Street cocktail haven Hanging Ditch.
Wine runs rampant in Wellington, thanks to the world-famous wine regions surrounding the city — you'll find most Wellington restaurants brimming with local drops on the menu. If you're looking for something entirely non-alcoholic though, pay Six Barrel Soda Co. a visit in Hannah's Laneway.
Want more? Check out our round-up of Wellington's best secret bars or best craft beer bars.
DO
Wellington's a highly walkable city, so lace up your booties and let's go 'sploring. Wandering along Wellington's straight-up beautiful waterfront is a must for first-timers, a stroll you can pair with a visit to the city's mighty Te Papa Tongarewa museum. It's been named one of Lonely Planet's 'Top 500 Places on the Planet' and for good reason. Over six floors, you can get a real sense of New Zealand's past, present and future, through gloriously well-curated exhibitions and a seriously epic collection.
Follow NZ's passion for art around the city — there's a smorgasbord of street art and laneway murals around town (you just have to be ready to follow a boring looking backstreet every so often).
For film fans, obviously New Zealand has its fair share of pop culture-related tourist Meccas. Let's face it, Wellington airport is home to giant, giant hanging statues of Gollum and Gandalf, so for Lord of the Rings fans, New Zealand is still the damn king of must-visit locations. Before you visit the home of the One Ring in Nelson, no self-respecting movie buff would leave Wellington without a visit to the Weta Cave and Workshop. One of the must-do film studio tours in the world, Weta will put you right up close to the props, costumes and hallowed halls of creativity behind The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, Mad Max: Fury Road, District 9, King Kong, The Chronicles of Narnia, Avatar, District 9 and more. You might hold an alien assault rifle from District 9, swing an orc mace from The Hobbit, or hold incredibly detailed chain mail worn by Frodo Baggins. Shell out for a Prancing Pony fridge magnet and head back to the city with a hobbity spring in your step.
If we told you that you could spend an afternoon in Wellington cuddling up to, say, four red pandas, would you pop this on your to-do list? Worth every dime of a on-holiday splurge, Wellington Zoo offers some pretty kickass 'Animal Encounters'. Being red panda enthusiasts, we skipped the cheetahs and the meerkats to snuggle up to the zoo's four straight-up adorable pandas. You can pat them. And feed them grapes. Because they're gods amongst men.
Also recommended is a stroll around the Botanic Garden, and if you're looking for one of the best views in town, set aside $7.50 for a return trip on the Wellington Cable Car.
Intercontinetal.
STAY
Depending on your budget, Wellington's got a pretty wide range of accommodation options. If you've got a little dosh to burn on your well-earned weekend away, we stayed right in the city at the Intercontinental Wellington. Sitting right near the harbour waterfront and a very easy walk to Wellington's main galleries and Te Papa, Courtenay Place, Cuba Street and Hannah's Laneway, this slick inner city hotel will make a Kevin Macallister out of you in minutes. Don a fluffy white robe and make yourself at home in one of 232 contemporary guest rooms, equipped with extra large towels, giant, giant shower heads and — wait for it — a pillow menu.
For something equally opulent, check out the award-winning ten-room boutique hotel Ohtel, sitting in the swanky seaside neighbourhood of Oriental Bay. Each room looks straight out of a design magazine shoot, decked out by owner/designer Alan Blundell with his own collected treasures, clocks, ceramics and individual chairs. It's pretty close to Wellington's main entertainment precinct too. Rooms come equipped with two-person baths, podcast facilities, natural toiletries, free wifi and oversized showers.
There's plenty of budget accommodation and B&Bs in Wellington too, check out WellingtonNZ.com for a bunch of great options.
LET'S DO THIS, HOW DO I GET THERE?
Flights to Wellington from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane are super short — around 3.5 hours on average. Jetstar have just launched a direct route from Melbourne to Wellington (from $159) and Queenslanders can fly direct from the Gold Coast (from $169). Air New Zealand fly direct from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Wellington (from $297).
Next weekend, we hop on a 45 minute flight out of Wellington to the pretty city of Nelson for some of New Zealand's best contemporary art, insanely good (and globally renowned) wine region and some of the world's most beautiful outdoor adventuring.>
Shannon Connellan travelled as a guest of WellingtonNZ.com. Top image: Egmont Street Eatery. All other images SC unless otherwise specified.