Overview
Since opening late in 2018, Brisbane's Howard Smith Wharves precinct has continued to expand. The spot already boasts a riverfront brewery, an overwater bar and a sprawling Greek taverna, as well as an Art Series hotel with a rooftop pool, waterside Betty's Burgers, gelato joint, light-filled restaurant and just-opened Cantonese restaurant and bar — and now it's home to Jonathan Barthelmess' new two-level Japanese izakaya.
First announced earlier this year and called Yoko Dining, this is restaurateur Barthelmess' second HSW venue. The new restaurant and bar sits next door to his existing Greca restaurant, and takes inspiration from his time spent in Tokyo, where his fine diner The Apollo is located.
If you've ever visited the Japanese capital's izakaya and music bars, you'll be well prepared for Yoko Dining. Think tunes spun on vinyl, an upbeat vibe and a retro-yet-futuristic feel both in the downstairs restaurant and on Yoko's mezzanine level. The upper space also features a hidden bar and a dining space. Decor-wise, renowned interior architect George Livissianis has jazzed up the heritage building's original timber framework with bursts of yellow, concrete fixtures and blonde wood, plus an interesting lighting design, all while keeping to a box-style structure.
In the kitchen, Kitak Lee leads the charge, with the head chef already a veteran of Barthelmess's Japanese joint in Sydney, Cho Cho San. A hibachi (a Japanese charcoal grill) sits pride of place in the kitchen, the seafood-heavy menu heroes smoky flavours, and there's a raw bar serving up fresh sashimi, tempura and seasonal gyoza. You'll also find noodles, tonkatsu, wagyu and charcoal chicken among the mains — and plus pork kakuni bossam, which is braised pork belly Japanese-style. As for dessert, choose between shaved ice kakigori, mochi, matcha and mango-flavoured soft serve, and a mille feuille slice made with yuzu and strawberry.
As for drinks, prepare to sip your way through yuzu slushies, vodka-splashed iced teas, ten different types of sake, and a range of umeshu (plum wine), yuzushu (yuzu liqueur) and shochu. Japanese whiskeys, Japanese and Australian beers, and sodas with optional booze are also available — as is wine on tap and in bottles from a 100-strong list.
Yoko Dining is now open at Howard Smith Wharves, 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane — Monday–Friday from midday–late, and weekends from 11.30am–late.