Bistra

Overview

From the moment it opened its doors in early 2024, Bistra became a Carlton classic. A white-tablecloth affair with a decidedly Australian flair, an evening at Bistra is always sophisticated, never stuffy. 

The romantic two-storey venue on Elgin Street is owned by Henry Crawford, Alexei Taheny-Macfarlane, and Joseph Ho, a trio of hospitality and wine experts. Studio Wonder designed the space to feel intimate and inviting, freshened up with playful art and sculpture from local artists such as Darren Sylvester, Carol Crawford and Riley Payne. 

Manning the pans and leading a team of ambitious up-and-comers is head chef Alex Nishizawa. When your resume includes gigs at Bar Liberty, Falco and working as Ben Shewry's sous chef at Attica, it's no surprise you've landed the top spot in one of Melbourne's hottest kitchens.

The traditional yet undeniably intelligent menu is the kind that causes diners to consider ordering one of everything. How should we be able to choose between chicken liver pâté with traditional accompaniments, tiger prawns with fermented chilli and parsley, or an asparagus salad with poached egg, parmesan, croutons and tarragon? And you can't miss the crowd favourites, spinach and ricotta dumplings with butter and sage, and agnolotti with Long Paddock Cheese and pistachio.

For mains, many cannot resist the classic cheeseburger, or an eye fillet with peppercorn sauce and fries. However, the Sommerland chicken with Jerusalem artichoke and truffled jus is also a quiet contender for a winner. Whichever you choose, there is sure to be an expertly picked wine to match, with Bistra's wine list comprising a collection that the owners have been building together for over ten years. 

You must save room for a dessert, or two (or three). Nostalgic, comforting flavours in the form of apple crumble with créme fraiche, banana cake with chocolate butterscotch and cream, and cream puffs with ice cream and chocolate ganache, will be a sweet end to a wonderful evening.      

Top image: Becca Crawford.