Ten Essential Spots to Visit in Haymarket
Including cream puffs, cheese tarts and a recently revamped tea house tucked away in a garden.
Ten Essential Spots to Visit in Haymarket
Including cream puffs, cheese tarts and a recently revamped tea house tucked away in a garden.
In the heart of Sydney city, you'll find the bright and bustling Haymarket: the epicentre of Asian culture and cuisine. The streets are alive with colour, movement and smells beckoning you from one restaurant to the next. Clusters of caligraphy-covered shops compete for space along the packed streets illuminated by glowing lanterns and neon lights. The smell of garlic frying and meats grilling wafts through the air, as dumpling carts emit a steamy haze. It's all very Blade Runner-esque — and just like that complex sci-fi it can, at first, be a little difficult to navigate.
To one side, you'll see Paddy's Markets heaving with bargain hunters; the other, Dixon Street, full to the brim with cuisines from across Asia. But where should you start? Don't stress. Last year, we partnered with City of Sydney and spoke to chef Mori Higashida of tip-top ramen joint Gumshara about his favourite spots around the area. And now, we've teamed up with City of Sydney again to pull out ten essential spots for you to hit next time you're wandering around Haymarket. Read on, take note and make tracks to this inner-city culinary wonderland.
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It’d be remiss to visit Haymarket without embarking on a good ol’ yum cha session. And what better time than breakfast — it’s the most important meal of the day, after all. There are a number of dim sim-serving joints packed into the suburb, but we suggest heading to the tried-and-true Marigold Citymark. Operating for more than 35 years, it’s safe to say the Marigold crew knows its way around a dumpling, or two, or 50. The carts start circling from 10am and tasty plates land in front of your face within a matter of seconds. Grab a Tsingtao, a round of cloud-like char siu bao (steamed barbecue pork buns) and get stuck in. Oh, and don’t forget to finish off with those sweet, creamy mango pancakes.
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While it might be hard to resist the pull of super saccharine bubble tea — it seems like there’s a joint on every block — treat yourself to a quality cup of joe at Edition Haymarket. Run by a “Japanese Army” according to owner Daniel Jackson, Edition is an innovative katsu-slinging cafe which takes its cues from Japanese culture and cuisine. Expect that effortlessly elegant Japanese style paired with unwavering precision. But let’s talk coffee. Since you’re in for a day of exploring Haymarket and its surrounds, opt for an Ethiopia Kochere iced long back to keep you both cool and caffeinated without the sugar high.
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Lunch is arguably the best time to hang out in Haymarket; there are a ton of lunchtime specials to please even bigtime penny pinchers. Make tracks to Market City’s newly minted 1909 Dining Precinct to discover a throng of top-notch Asian eateries serving up everything from spicy wonton soup to fresh sushi. Our pick? Upscale Korean Barbecue eatery Kogi. Run by Seoul-trained chef Hang Jun Chung, the restaurant gives diners a hands-on experience with the option to cook directly over hot charcoal. But, for lunch, we suggest tucking into a $10 Korean Lunchbox which includes a few sides of Korean snacks, rice and your choice of spicy pork, braised beef short rib, chicken, grilled eel or mackerel.
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In April 2018, Haymarket scored an epic new foodie precinct Steam Mill Lane and welcomed a few heavy hitters to the area — hello, 8bit and Marrickville Pork Roll’s flashy CBD outpost. But one of the coolest new additions has been the Tokyo-inspired izakaya Bang Bang. Perfect for a rambunctious dinner, Bang Bang serves up mega katsu, octopus tempura, spicy edamame, citrus-infused shochu cocktails, as well as whisky and pina colada highballs. Oh, and it’s got a soundproof neon-lit glass karaoke room for kick ons. Embodying that effusive party spirit found in the streets of Shinjuku, this eatery guarantees a really good time.
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There was a time when the only place to get a drink in Haymarket was at a tired Irish pub or non-descript bar. Thankfully, the area has acquired new, swanky little cocktail joint Bancho. Run by the flock behind Tokyo Bird — Surry Hills’ much-loved yakitori and whisky bar — the 100-seat laneway spot has brought that highly coveted small bar culture to Haymarket. Taking inspiration from its surrounds, Bancho has crafted a menu featuring fresh Asian ingredients procured from the nearby grocers and markets. Enjoy creative cocktails, like a bright pink Dragon’s Breath (dragonfruit-infused gin and shochu with raspberry, lemon and basil seeds) or Matcha Chocolate Negroni, and Japanese-inspired bar snacks, like agedashi tofu bao or katsu skewers.
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Just when you thought you’d eaten enough, you stumble upon the puffs; there’s always room for puffs. Of the hundreds of Asian delicacies that you’ll come across, Emperor’s Puffs are a must try. On the corner of Hay and Dixon streets, you’ll find these warm, custardy doughballs coming straight from the oven. Honestly, one puff makes everything better. The best part? You can get three puffs for just a buck. And if that doesn’t curb your sugar craving, head into its bakery next door to find a whole bunch of other desserts including moon cakes, chocolate eclairs and egg tarts.
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From one sweet thing to the next — well, savoury-sweet we should say — it’s time for a Hokkaido baked cheese tart (or 20 — you’ll want to take some of these babies home with you). Designed to be eaten either hot or cold, the tart is comprised of a silky three-cheese filling and a buttery shortcrust shell. So simple, so delicious. While the cheesy custard is made from local produce, it’s based on the dairy products of Hokkaido (Japan’s dairy mecca) and made using a traditional Japanese recipe. At $3.90 a pop, the tarts may not be as cheap as the aforementioned puffs but they’re certainly worth every cent.
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Ah, Paddy’s Markets. Where do we even start? It’s a market to end all markets. The aisles are jam-packed with all kinds of wares (many of the ‘I didn’t realise I needed that’ kind) including phone cases, leather goods, luggage, kitchen items, watches, sunglasses, hats, costumes, hair extensions, graphic tees… We could sit here all day listing items. Basically, if you think of the most random thing from the outer reaches of your mind, Paddy’s will have it. Not only will Paddy’s have it, but it’ll also be dirt cheap. What’s more, there’s also a fresh produce market held Wednesday to Sunday where you can stock up on fresh herbs, veg and Asian ingredients. Take a backpack and get ready to shop till you’ve hit sensory overload — there are more than 1000 stalls within the market. Just make sure you keep some Kondo wisdom in the back of your mind. If something doesn’t bring you joy, put it down and step away.
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After all that shopping cardio, you’ll be keen for a spot of relaxation and we have just the place. A green oasis amid concrete surrounds, the Chinese Garden of Friendship is the Ying to Haymarket’s Yang: a quiet place where you can escape the hustle and bustle, chill out and recharge. The garden has waterfalls, sculptures, lakes and wildlife like koi carp, water dragons and lots of pretty birds. When you’re ready for a tipple or bite to eat, pop by the recently revamped teahouse. Sydney’s Lotus Dining Group has snapped up the idyllic space and is offering a brand new menu of dim sum, dumplings and refreshing drinks — it’s a perfect way to cap off your park hang.
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Since Haymarket has vibrant street art and colourful laneways aplenty, you don’t need to look hard to find ‘culture’ — you’re part of it. But if you’re seeking a traditional gallery experience within the confines of four walls, check out the 4A Centre for Contemporary Asian Art. Since 1996, the not-for-profit exhibition space has hosted an array of thought-provoking shows designed to facilitate cultural dialogue. Much like the suburb in which it resides, 4A is constantly pushing the limits and forging exciting new territory.
See chef Mori Higashida’s favourite spots around Haymarket above and discover more around the city here.
Top image: Destination NSW.
