Ten Essential Spots to Visit in Surry Hills

Pretty much everywhere you look in Surry Hills, there’s a hip-and-happening cafe overflowing with food and coffee aficionados. From Bills to the OG Bourke Street Bakery, it’s not uncommon to see lines snaking down the streets leading to a fine brunching establishment. While there are many more worthy spots to mention, Reuben Hills consistently draws a crowd. Located on Albion Street — Foveaux’s slightly less steep sister — the sleek, industrial-chic cafe boasts an on-site micro roastery so you know the coffee is good. Moreover, the innovative menu inspired by the team’s coffee buying expeditions to Central and South America is packed with dishes of note, like the huevos divorciados (soft fried eggs with red and green salsa, charro beans and smoked cheese on tostadas, plus optional chorizo sausage from LP’s) and the green chilaquiles (smoked pinto beans, seeds and currants, feta, yoghurt, sumac, fried egg and tortilla chips.

We’re still searching for a bad cuppa in Surry Hills. Remember Agent Cooper from Twin Peaks? This would be his heaven, full of damn good coffee. Since there is such a high volume of knock-out cafes in close proximity — Single O, Paramount Coffee Project, the aforementioned Reuben Hills, to name just a handful — the standard is incredibly high. But for a truly stand-out brew, pop by Artificer Specialty Coffee Bar & Roastery. As the venue’s moniker suggests, the folk here are legit coffee purveyors and skilled artisans. Headed up by Dan Yee (ex-Salvage) and Shoji Sasa (Mecca and Single O), Artificer is focused solely on turning out high-quality coffee — there’s no food to distract you, just appreciate those beans.

Image: Letícia Almeida.

Back in 2016, The Dolphin underwent a drastic transformation and turned from a sport-centric boozer into trendy venue covered in graffiti and splashes of paint on white and wrapped in plastic. At the helm of The Dolphin is culinary heavyweight and fashion designer Maurice Terzini (Icebergs, Da Orazio), who created a quintessentially Surry Hills venue to be enjoyed by anyone, at any time. There’s a generous aperitivo hour, an airy dining room with an open kitchen and even a takeaway bottle-o, but we think it’s best to drop by at lunch for the Proper Sandwiches. Available from 12–3pm, Monday to Friday, the sandwiches hero local produce, like mortadella from LP’s Meats, deli fodder from Victor Churchill’s and fluffy bread from Brickfields, and are all about creating the perfect ratio (basically, they don’t skimp on the fillings). Get ready to sample some life-changing sandos.

After a long day of being a nomad yourself, wandering the hilly streets of Surry Hills, this upscale eatery is one place where you’ll want to stay put. The chic converted warehouse, complete with high ceilings, clean lines and polished concrete floors, provides the perfect setting to wine, dine and unwind. Kick things off with vino from the quaffable list curated by Rob Geddes — one of only 18 Masters of Wine in the country — then get set for a rustic Mediterranean feast, the handiwork of Heston-trained chef Nathan Sasi. Think house-cured meats and crunchy pickles, fresh baby octopus grilled over hot coals and wood-roasted kingfish with shellfish butter.

Located on buzzing Bourke Street, just a few steps from the newly reinstated rainbow crossing, Dead Ringer gives you front row seats to the Surry Hills show. From the twee terrace balcony, you can people- (and pooch-) watch till your heart’s content. But it’s not just location that this bar excels at, it’s cocktails, too. Dead Ringer’s co-owner Tim Phillips has won numerous accolades, including World Class Global Champion back in 2012, which gives you an idea of the calibre of tipple here. Be sure to try the Bourke St Swizzle with rum from the nearby Brix Distillers, Peychaud’s bitters and mint.

Remember how we said Surry was always two steps ahead? Well, Nutie is proof. The gluten-free and mostly vegan eatery has broken out of the traditional baking mould and is catering specifically to those battling food allergies. While the Holt Street hotspot has a full-service kitchen pumping out both breakfast and lunch-time feeds entirely free of any trace of gluten, we need to talk baked goods. Particularly, the doughnuts. Baked in-house daily, the allergy-friendly treats are the perfect ‘guilt-free’ snack, because gluten-free stuff is healthy, right? (At least you’ll be abiding by any dietaries you tend to ignore when irresistible baked goods are about.) Go for the Cookie Monster; it’s good enough for me, and you, and everyone.

For a little slice of heaven, or many slices of heaven, head to the celebrated cheese shop and eatery Formaggi Ocello. Here, you’ll find more than 200 types of cheese hailing from Spain, France, Italy and beyond. From gooey, stinky French washed-rind fromage to crumbly, matured cheddars, Ocello covers the whole spectrum of cheese. You can pick a couple of chunks out to take home or curate your own cheese board (from one to seven different wedges) to enjoy with a vino in the shop’s sun-dappled alfresco area. Keen to learn while you indulge? Book into one of the fromagerie’s wine and cheese nights which showcase six of each.

When creative duo Orlando and Nicola Reindorf moved to Sydney way back in 2000, they decided to bring the very best of UK and Euro fashion with them. The pair nabbed some highly coveted Crown Street real estate, an old laundromat next door to Trinity Bar, and started slinging uber trendy threads and homewares. Since then, The Standard Store has grown from strength to strength — and started showcasing Australian designers, too. The ethos is simple: it’s all about curated, minimalist style. The polar opposite of the cluttered thrift shops and fast-fashion chain stores that occupy much of the city. Basically, it’s where Marie Kondo would shop. Head along and pick out something special — one item only, please — to remember your trip to Surry.

The Paramount building in Surry Hills has become somewhat of an iconic landmark within the suburb and greater Sydney. The three-storey, tile-clad, art deco gem, which was once home to Paramount Picture Studios during the cinema boom in the 1930s, is now bursting at its lovingly restored seams with new businesses. There’s a coffee shop, a luxury hotel and an upscale wine bar named Poly. There’s also the Golden Age Cinema and Bar paying homage to the building’s heritage. With a revamped screening room and a 60-person capacity small bar slinging all kinds of movie-themed cocktails — like Godfather, Metropolis, Mean Girl and Clockwork Orange — Golden Age is a wonderful place to have a drink steeped in history. The film program covers both new releases and classics, with curated screenings for special events and holidays. If you’re hungry, hit up the kitchen for a mac and cheese toastie.

If you’ve ever watched 24 Hour Party People and wished for a place like Hacienda to exist in real life, look no further. This Oxford Street stalwart exudes serious warehouse party vibes and has an undercurrent of progressive art and music to make you feel like you might discover something brand new and fabulous, just like Tony Wilson. Inspired by Andy Warhol’s Factory, the multifaceted venue boasts unique spaces — The Gallery, The Live Art Space and The Cube — to house its ever-changing contemporary program. Even from the outside, the venue has a sort of magnetic pull; bands bump in drum kits and gear while lines of fans in stovepipe jeans wait patiently to get in. Inside, it’s electric. Get ready to dance the night away while you’re immersed in some of Sydney’s best live music and art.

Image: Bec Taylor.