Now Open: The White Horse Has Reopened with Top Hospitality Talent at the Helm

Following a complete overhaul, this Surry Hills stalwart now boasts an intimate restaurant and airy garden bar with elevated dining menus that highlight local flavours.
Nishika Sharma
Published on April 22, 2024

Joining the slew of Sydney venues that have scored a makeover recently is Surry Hills' The White Horse — an iconic pub that has been revamped into a stunning new dining destination. Following a massive revamp, this Crown Street locale opened its doors to the public on Wednesday, April 17, unveiling a brand-new look and revitalised concept.

The inner-city stalwart now seats up to 170 guests across two spacious floors, with a cosy restaurant on the ground floor and a leafy garden bar upstairs. Its new approach centres around elegant dishes that don't break the bank, served in a sophisticated yet casual space.

Public garden bar at the revamped White Horse pub.

Leading the reboot is Director Craig Hemmings (ex-Quay, Chin Chin Sydney, Guillaume at Bennelong and Bistro Guillaume), who is joined by a stacked lineup of hospitality heavyweights. Executive Chef Jed Gerrard (ex-Wildflower, Hearth and currently also a Culinary Director at Wills Domain in Margaret River) is in charge of the kitchen, while wine consultant James Audas (Lo-Fi Wines, Bar Heather, Noma, Tetsuya's) and cocktail consultant Michael Chiem (PS40, Bulletin Place, Sokyo) take care of the drinks. Rounding out the team is General Manager Maureen Er (Manly Greenhouse, Tetsuya's, Cho Cho San), who'll look after the venue and its patrons.

"We're thrilled to bring this old girl back to life," says Hemmings. "We've approached the White Horse with a contemporary lens, elevating the offering without the price tag."

Designed by Farago Han Studio (The Waratah), the restaurant's interiors are welcoming and intimate. Donning a soft, neutral colour palette, paired with khaki and navy leather seating and textured walls — designed to hark back to Surry Hills' bedrock foundation — the venue doubles as a space for both daytime dining and sophisticated dinners.

Ground flood restaurant at the revamped White Horse pub.

As for the garden terrace on the top floor, the public bar takes cues from the breezy courtyards and rooftop bars dotted around the CBD. A navy, terracotta and cream colour scheme reflect the pub's laidback nature, with comfortable lounges and velvet ottomans to pair. Plus, the pub's walls are adorned with an array of gorgeous artworks across both floors.

The White Horse retains its familiarity with approachable dining at the forefront of its ethos. Its menus hero quality local produce, with highlight dishes such as Abrolhos Island scallops with kohlrabi and wasabi leaf, squid ink-glazed toothfish, and a Berkshire pork jowl accompanied by sugarloaf cabbage and nashi pear. The garden bar menu is all about snacks, with plates like toasted brioche with liver mousse, black olive-crumbed lamb cutlets, and a wagyu steak sandwich with fries.

"My focus is on the smart use of great ingredients so our guests can enjoy dishes that deliver more than they expected," says Executive Chef Gerrard.

Squid ink-glazed toothfish from ground flood restaurant at the revamped White Horse pub.

The house-made cocktails follow suit, championing local ingredients. Opt for a stiff old fashioned with Enokido white miso caramel; a Davidson plum and white rum sip called the Queen's Gambit; or a strawberry and yuzu spritz on tap — a collaboration between Bizzarro and PS40 — at the restaurant. Upstairs, the fruity Billionaire, starring Giffard rhubarb with dark rum, and the bourbon-based Continental lead the garden bar's cocktail menu.

As for the vino, Audas has curated an expansive selection of 100 wines, from organic and biodynamic to regenerative tipples. You'll find that half the wines hail from Aussie and New Zealand producers, while the remaining drops have been imported from Europe.

"We will offer some more well-known names in the organic space alongside those that might be a new discovery for many," said Audas. "Some styles will be more classic drinking, and others are there to challenge and thrill."

Dish from ground flood restaurant at the revamped White Horse pub.

Public garden bar at the revamped White Horse pub.

Dish from ground flood restaurant at the revamped White Horse pub.

Ground flood restaurant at the revamped White Horse pub.

Dish from ground flood restaurant at the revamped White Horse pub.

The White Horse is open from 5pm til late every Wednesday–Sunday at 381 Crown St in Surry Hills.

Image credits: Steve Woodburn and Gavin Green.

Published on April 22, 2024 by Nishika Sharma
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