Overview
"Tropical futurism" is not a term often (if ever) heard. However, according to House Made Hospitality, this is the vibrant aesthetic of Island Radio, one of two venues by the group at Wunderlich Lane, the newly minted hospo and retail hub at Surry Hills Village. So, what is tropical futurism? If Island Radio represents the prime example, it's an eye-popping mix of daring colour, jungle foilage and a whole lot of moonlight.
This 140-seat eating house and noodle bar is located within one of the only original buildings to be retained on the footprint of this sprawling development on the border of Surry Hills and Redfern. The heritage-listed Bank of NSW building has been transformed by Émilie Delalande from Etic as two distinct spaces.
As guests enter, they find themselves in the noodle bar — an informal, walk-ins-welcome space where diners can enjoy an affordable menu inspired by Southeast Asia's vibrant hawker markets. There are heartier eats on offer, such as Singapore white pepper mushroom bakmi ($16) and beef short rib soup with mustard greens ($22), alongside snacks like Duck Spring Rolls with Sambal Mayo ($12 for two) and Crispy Adobo Chicken Buns ($14). The cocktail list adds some tropical whimsy with drinks like the Poolside in Langkawi featuring pandan, white rum, passionfruit and frosty fruit foam, or the Junglebird ($23), a spiced rum mingle with tamarind, pineapple, lime and a splash of Campari.
For a more substantial feed, diners can head through to eating house. The space, designed by Delalande, blends a contemporary yet beachy vibe with bold hues that nod to island life while maintaining a base note of urban chic. Vivid orange banquettes, midnight blue floors and ceilings and bright yellow tiles cladding the two open kitchens, all illuminated by a constellation of fibreglass pendants resembling the moon, combine to create a playful, uplifting space. Heritage elements like pressed metal ceilings, exposed rafters and the original safe repurposed as a cool room add yet another layer of interest, weaving in the history of the building.
The menu, devised by Executive Chef Andrianto 'Andy' Wirya, formerly of Queen Chow and Mr. Wong, focuses on discovery and sharing. Drawing inspiration from street markets of Singapore, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Malaysia, the dishes blend familiar flavours with unexpected twists. Highlights include Malaysian chicken skewers with sesame satay sauce, Sate Padang with smoked ox tongue, Singaporean White Pepper Lobster Noodles, and Beef Noodle Soup with shaved wagyu and mustard greens. There are also small plates like the Island Radio Salad, Malaysian King Prawn Roti, and Toasted Rice Bread with Sambal Butter to complement the larger offerings, and sharing dishes such as the Babi Guling, a Balinese-style roast suckling pig, and the 800g Short Rib Cap Rendang. Banquet menus, including a $39 Lunch Rapido, offer an affordable way to experience the full breadth of Island Radio's dining offering.
The kiosk is a savvy addition that offers convenient takeaway options for diners on the go, including pandan & coconut bread ($6), and roti flatbread with pickled onions, cabbage, and your choice of sambal matah pork ($15), Malaysian satay chicken ($13), or sweet & sour eggplant ($12).
"Island Radio is a departure from what we've done before," says Justin Newton, Director of House Made Hospitality. "We wanted to bring a big dose of energy - through the visuals, the music, and, of course, in the food and drinks. We always aim for our venues to feel approachable and warm, and while Island Radio has that, it's also our most playful restaurant yet. We're excited to see how both Island Radio and Baptist Street Rec. Club will add to the buzz in Wunderlich Lane and connect with the communities in Redfern and Surry Hills."
Images: Steven Woodburn