KODA Sydney

Overview

Cheese toasties, chicken tenders and cheesy bolognese aren't dishes you'd normally expect to encounter in a buzzy, neon-lit, Tokyo-inspired CBD restaurant. But when that cheese toastie is layered with Kewpie and furikake, those golden chicken tenders are crowned with caviar, and that cheesy bolognese envelopes plump Tajima wagyu gyoza, you realise KODA isn't here to play by anyone else's rules.

It's said that to break the rules, you first have to know them — and that's exactly the case at this Japanese-influenced spot by hospo veteran Matt Yazbeck (Toko). When we broke the news about KODA in October, Yazbeck promised a "no-attitude, fun-times destination" in the sun-washed corner space once home to Monopole. Judging by the opening energy — and the menu — he hasn't missed.

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At the centre of it all (and beyond those attention-grabbing snacks, which also include crumbed salmon maki, lobster-topped ramen and crinkle-cut fries with Java curry) is a glowing robata grill framed by an ice-filled display of market seafood and premium cuts. Diners point to whatever catches their eye — ponzu-glazed snapper, whole Moreton Bay bugs finished with lemon, Kurobata pork ribs with chilli miso, Tajima 9+ wagyu — and the kitchen cooks, seasons and serves it on long wooden Japanese boat paddles. Veggies get the same treatment, from yuzu kosho butter-brushed greens and a soy-dashi mushroom hot pot to teriyaki-buttered jacket potato topped with tofu sour cream.

Drinks also come with a nod and a wink. Expect matcha highballs, Oreo-topped cocktails and Kylie Minogue rosé alongside a solid selection of sake, Japanese beers and Australian wines.

The space itself has also been reimagine. Gone are Monopole's understated neutral tones and linen-topped tables — in their place: draped cherry blossoms, carved timber and plush velvet banquettes, all backed by a high-vibes soundtrack that swings between rock and house.

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Images: Saidie Creative.