The Taste Trend: A Retro Revival Is Restoring Kings Cross as Sydney's Go-To for All Things Nightlife
With lockouts and lockdowns in the rearview mirror, The Cross is ready for a comeback thanks to the efforts of some pioneering new venues.
It was once known as the Glittering Mile — Sydney's dazzling nightlife heartland and red light district where finding a good (if somewhat sleazy) time was always guaranteed. But since its heydays in the 70s, 80s and 90s, much has changed in Kings Cross.
The introduction of NSW Premier Barry O'Farrell's lockout laws in 2014 had a profound impact, leading to the closure of ten late-night venues along Darlinghurst and Bayswater Roads. Despite this legislation being repealed in 2021, Kings Cross has struggled to reclaim its former glory as Sydney's go-to destination for a big night out.
That could soon change, however, thanks to a recent influx of hospitality and nightlife ventures aiming to revive the dormant hedonism that was once such an essential part of Kings Cross' identity.
(L-R) Designer Mike Delany with David and Amy Spanton
David and Amy Spanton have been at the forefront of this revival with their trio of venues. Each is a time capsule, preserving a shade of the area's rich hospitality legacy. Piccolo Bar, an icon of The Cross for more than six decades, almost joined the list of businesses destroyed by the lockouts, until the Spantons stepped in to rescue the beloved hole-in-the-wall, reimagining it as an aperitivo bar in 2021. They also rescued Cafe Hernandez, which had been serving freshly roasted coffee 24/7 for fifty years before closing in 2022. The Spantons reimagined it as the vermouth bar Vermuteria the following year.
Their latest venture, The Hook on Bayswater Road, is a tribute to the Bayswater Brasserie, once renowned as "the hottest cocktail bar and restaurant in Australia" during its peak in the 90s and 00s, according to David Spanton. Located just 50 meters from The Bayz's former site, The Hook is one of three significant new arrivals on this storied street, echoing the vibrant Kings Cross of old.
These include Mirage KX, a collaboration between queer party collective House of Mince and hospo heavyweight Maurice Terzini of Bondi Icebergs, which much like Terzini's wildly popular Potts Point pop-up Snack Kitchen, is making use of a disused building awaiting redevelopment. Risqué cabaret was once one of Kings Cross' signature entertainments at venues like the ahead-of-its-time drag revue bar Les Girls and the infamous Carousel Club. Mirage KX is showcasing its own unique take on the dinner-and-a-show cabaret concept, with avant-garde performances, a joyously subversive edge and top-notch service.
House of Mince creator Peter Shopovski notes that reviving this form of entertainment in The Cross is a way to reconnect with the vivid history that once defined this area.
"Kings Cross has always been a hub of creativity, diversity, and bold expression. Restoring that essence feels like honoring its legacy—celebrating the past while infusing it with new energy to ensure the spirit of Kings Cross continues to thrive and inspire," he explains.
Another Bayswater Road icon set for a rebirth is Hugos Lounge. The six-time winner of Australia's best nightclub became one of the most prominent casualties of the lockouts when it was forced to shutter in 2015 after takings dropped by 60 percent due to the crushing restrictions imposed on trading hours. Just shy of a decade on, the man behind top Sydney fine diners Parlar, Franca and Armorica, Andrew Becher, is preparing to welcome punters back to the old Hugos digs when he opens Pelicano restaurant and nightclub in October.
Becher's ambition for Pelicano reaches beyond merely repairing Kings Cross' standing with locals.
"The double hit of the lockout laws and then COVID has disrupted the nightlife economy for an entire generation of young Sydneysiders. This has a massive impact on Sydney's standing with tourists and visitors. We love this city, and we want to see it compete with the likes of London, New York and Paris where both day and night have a vibrancy and a culture to them — most people in their 20s today don't know a Sydney that truly champions its nightlife," he shares. "It's not a surprise that those who cherish their memories of Sydney and long for that vibrant energy are the ones spearheading its revival."
Hugos Lounge
New arrivals to the area's dining scene are likewise taking their cues from yesteryear, such as Arms Length, a day-to-night bar and restaurant which took over the same Kellett Street address as the now-closed Dean's Lounge in early September. As an homage to its predecessor, the famous late-night jaffles that were an ever-popular staple of Dean's remain on the menu.
Nick and Kirk Mathews-Bowden, the hospitality power couple behind Ezra and the dearly departed Raja, which closed in May, have made their own singular contribution to the retro renaissance with Teddy, a playfully kitsch neighbourhood diner serving elevated riffs on old-school classics.
(L-R) Kirk and Nick Mathews-Bowden
For Nick Mathews-Bowden, looking back for inspiration is about celebrating the best qualities of that history, while leaving the less desirable aspects of the past behind. "There have been so many eras and iterations of Kings Cross over the past 70 years, but there was certainly a time when there was a lot of vibrancy and excitement and Bohemian culture here. There was also lots of crime and danger — it was far from perfect. But it was full of life and that's what we love about what we're seeing in the area right now — that life is coming back."
Top image: Dean Tirkot
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