The Mulwray

Overview

Named after Evelyn Mulwray — the enigmatic femme fatale at the centre of Roman Polanski's 1974 classic Chinatown — this 50-seat Paddington bar draws on its cinematic namesake to set the tone: moody, intimate and refined. Set within the former Grand Pacific Blue Room — an it-nightclub of Y2K-era Sydney — The Mulwray joins sibling venues The Palomar and Jacob the Angel in London hospo crew Studio Paskin's stable at 25hours Hotel Sydney The Olympia.

A neon silhouette of Mulwray herself at the entrance gives way to a room anchored in dark leather, rich velvet and heritage brick, with soft honeyed lighting that makes everything — and everyone — look a little more glamorous. Subtle brass floor inlays, menus handwritten on mirrors and warm, atmospheric lighting give the space its cinematic edge while still feeling intimate and lived-in.

Behind the bar, Head of Beverage Roean Patawaran — whose CV includes Oncore by Clare Smyth, Firedoor and Woodcut — steers a cocktail program built on precision and restraint. Classics are the stars here, from martinis to french 75s, with just enough modern flair (see: the jalapeño-spiked Picante Margarita) to keep things interesting.

Wine shares top billing with the cocktails. The ever-evolving 100-bin list by Head Sommelier Eleonore Wulf (Aalia, Nour, Joji) celebrates biodynamic, organic and sustainable producers, spotlighting lesser-known grapes and methods without drifting into esoterica.

Food comes courtesy of Mitch Orr, who brings his big-swinging, flavour-forward approach to a sharp list of snacks. Expect fried zucchini flowers with green chilli yoghurt, Westholme wagyu tartare on toast and a scene-stealing fish finger sandwich.

Service is unobtrusive and deeply knowledgeable — more dinner party at your stylish friend's house than stuffy hotel bar. It's an atmosphere that honours its namesake: enigmatic, elegant and designed to draw you in slowly.

Justin Nicholas