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FOOD & DRINK

The Best Bakeries in Sydney

Crusty sourdough loaves, flaky croissants and everything in between.
By Concrete Playground
May 07, 2020
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The Best Bakeries in Sydney

Crusty sourdough loaves, flaky croissants and everything in between.
By Concrete Playground
May 07, 2020
  shares

THE BEST BAKERIES IN SYDNEY

Crusty sourdough loaves, flaky croissants and everything in between.

Sydney bakeries these days are in hot competition for your dough. There aren't many left just churning out simple loaves of white bread — now it's all about sourdough, fruit loaves, croissants, cronuts and cruffins. But not all of them rise to the occasion, so we're here to sort out which establishments you knead to visit, and which crumby ones you can be free of. It's the Concrete Playground Crust-See Sydney Bakery list — so use your loaf and follow it.

  • 12
    Cherry Moon General Store

    The woodfired breads at Cherry Moon are so good, the bakery regular sells out. But inner west locals don’t just flock to the venue for its doughy goods — the cafe and general store also has impressive house-made ferments, pickles and tasty brunch fare. The 20-seat venue is run by long-time hospitality vet and pastry chef Kimmy Gastmeier (RockpoolTetsuya’s and The Porteño Group) and her friend Aimee Graham, with a little help from Aimee’s husband Kenny Graham (The Lansdowne and The Unicorn). All of the bread is made using stone-ground flour from Gunnedah’s Wholegrain Milling Company and baked in a traditional 18th-century scotch oven. In said oven, Cherry Moon is also baking pastries, galettes and fruit tarts, along with Italian-style cream puffs and custard tarts. On the general store shelves, you’ll find Aimee’s fermented goods, such as sauerkraut, kimchi, keffir and tonics. Other drinks include coffee by Newtown’s 212 Blu, a house chai blend and cold-pressed orange and green juices.

    Image: Kitti Gould

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  • 11

    When you’re used to having only one option on a menu, it’s easy to be flawed with indecision when you actually have to make a choice. So be patient if the queue sometimes stalls at Wholegreen Bakery — everything here is 100 percent gluten free. Owner Cherie Lyden got into gluten free when her daughter was diagnosed as coeliac and needed to eliminate gluten from her diet. It took Lyden and her team of bakers around six months of testing and tweaking to get the sourdough recipe right — that is, crusty on the outside, chewy on the inside, and without the use of preservatives and gums. At the shop, she sells straight-up loaves alongside seeded, fruit and olive ones, as well as baguettes and rolls.  And, yes, there are pastries. Pastries! The kitchen team rolls out mounds of flaky, glossy croissants (plain and almond), pain au chocolats, pain aux raisins, fruit danishes and caramel twists. Savoury pastries abound, too, with sausage rolls, chicken and mushroom pies, and spinach and feta pasties served hot.

    Image: Kitti Gould

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  • 10
    Pioik Bakery

    In the middle of Pyrmont, beyond The Star and behind Blackwattle Bay, you’ll find family-run Pioik Bakery. Inside? Breads, cakes, meringues, frittatas, pastries, tarts and any other baked good you can think of. The Harris Street local started off with the mission to create simple, great food. There are flatbreads topped with veggies and egg sandwiches alongside sweet treats like flaky croissants, cinnamon scrolls and orange cake. But, it’s the bread that’s put Pioik on the map. First up, there’s Epooro (The King)  which is two kilograms of organic whole wheat dough. The Aftonf is a classic sourdough, Kemo is a dark rye style, there’s a fruit loaf dubbed Owtah and The Etyoo has five grains: organic sprouted rye grain, fermented whole oats, whole spelt, freekeh and pearl barley. You can get baguettes, focaccia and gluten free loaves, too.

    Pioik Bakery is currently open for takeaway and delivering to Pyrmont, Glebe, Surry Hills, Darlinghurst, Paddington and Camperdown. Order via the website.

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  • 9
    Brickfields Bakery

    This Chippendale cafe and bakery has walls lined with freshly baked breads and is a go-to for any inner city local. Not to mention it’s home to the broccoli sandwich. For sweettooths, Brickfield’s cabinet boasts the likes of passionfruit and white chocolate lamingtons, black sesame cookies, persian love cakes, date and custard tarts, and croissants — which often sell out by lunchtime. Bread-wise, there’s everything from a milk bun topped with sesame to stone-ground sourdough, spelt and honey sourdough, danish rye, focaccia, ciabatta, an olive loaf and one loaded with fig, raisins and walnuts. Brickfields is the brainchild of Simon Cancio (Luxe) and Paul Geshos (Mecca Coffee) so you can expect a winning bread/coffee combo, too.

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  • 8
    Flour and Stone

    Woolloomooloo favourite Flour and Stone expanded its digs in early 2020, opening a takeaway only store — dubbed the Annexe — just a few doors down Riley Street. Known for its top-notch pastries, delicious sandwiches and overall simple comfort food, Flour and Stone has a regularly changing menu. Its counter treats are baked daily, including sweet pastries like salted caramel and chocolate tarts and blueberry scones sat next to leek and gruyère tarts and beetroot and goats cheese tarte tatin. If you’re after something more substantial, there’s also a range of freshly made sandwiches — think ham, gruyère and chill jam or chicken and avocado on ciabatta — plus plenty of gourmet meat pies and sausage rolls to tuck into. And be sure to leave room for the lemon drizzle cake.

    Flour and Stone is open for takeaway at its Annexe store only, plus weekday delivery. To preorder, head here

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  • 7
    Bourke Street Bakery Surry Hills

    It wouldn’t be a complete list of Sydney’s top bakehouses without the Bourke Street Bakery blueprint. The bakery chain now has 12 Sydney locations and while they all have the ginger crème brûlée tart, chocolate and sour cherry cookies and amazing sandwiches, this Surry Hills gem is the OG. Located on Bourke Street (hence the name), the popular store is filled with fresh loaves, beef brisket pie, lamb and harissa sausage rolls and pastries. And it always has a line on weekends, so prepare to wait.

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  • 6

    If not for the queue running out the door, Iggy’s Down Under would be easy to miss. But if the queue of ga-ga customers somehow fails to catch your attention, the wafting aroma of freshly baked bread certainly will. Iggy’s is not to be underestimated. Its breads are regarded as some of the best in the area, nay the whole city. Once you navigate the line, the options may overwhelm. Don’t worry your hungry head, however: at this bakery, you can’t make a wrong decision. Iggy’s operates under the principle of honest quality, producing nothing short of delicious perfection.

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  • 5

    Nowadays, bakeries in Sydney specialising in sourdough are a dime a dozen. Twenty years ago? Not so much. Infinity Bakery, originally led by baker Philip Searle, was a rare find for organic sourdough in the inner city. And while the bakery scene has shifted dramatically in the proceeding years, Infinity — now led by brother and sister duo, William and Sophie Peterson — is still the go-to for locals seeking authentic (and crazy delicious) baked treats. The business, which now also has outposts in Manly and Paddington, is all about following traditional Parisian baking practices. Alongside its range of sourdough — white, wholemeal, spelt and rye — you can find expertly made pastries, from croissants and cinnamon scrolls to piping hot pies, plus cakes, muffins, sandwiches and a brownie that can’t be beat.

    Image: Trent van der Jagt

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  • 4

    You may have seen them in cafes across Sydney: huge, pudgy scrolls covered in a blanket of icing sugar. Hidden within are layers of buttery dough and a secret spice mix created by Tony Jabbour, owner and chef of Oregano Bakery. These signature scrolls came about as a result of a rough start to a pizza business. Four years ago Oregano Bakery was a Lebanese pizza store — but boredom led to sugar cravings, so Tony started making his favourite sweet. Enter the cinnamon scroll. Starting with ten units a day, he now produces thousands a day and the family-run business is distributing its famous, oozing scrolls to over cafes across Sydney. It’s not just the cinnamon scrolls that sell-out: mocha, tahini, apple and cinnamon, red velvet, Nutella and banana, cookies and cream and peanut butter are also jaw-dropping good. With sweet, syrupy goodness swirled into each crevasse, they really are morsels of joy worth cradling. Despite the scrolls stealing the limelight, the core of the bakery is still all about the pizza. The zaatar wrap is deliciously filled with mint, shallots, olives and yoghurt, and the simple zaatar pizza with cheese is our pick of the lot.

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  • 3
    Sonoma Cafe

    Sonoma sourdough may be a staple on breakfast menus throughout the city, but if you want to try its signature miche loaf, slow fermented baguettes or flaky pastries you’ll need to head straight to the source. Of the eight outposts in the Sonoma family, the Alexandria one remains the most impressive. Set within a converted warehouse, the shopfront boasts high, slanted ceilings and a sleek monochrome fit-out, with shelves stocked with loaves like a gallery for gluten. Sandwiches and toasties aside, you can chew your way through cultured butter croissants and French patisserie items, including sticky cinnamon ‘morning buns’, glazed pain au raisin and icing sugar-dusted danishes.

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  • 2

    Revitalising the old greasy Chick-a-licious chicken and chips shop on Redfern Street, Breadfern is known for its organic, handmade rye breads, tiramisu cake, chicken pies and custard tarts. As well as its hefty lineup of gluten free options. And while there are no chairs and tables at Breadfern, this over-the-counter affair is perfect for takeaway park lunches in Redfern Park over the road (when picnics are allowed again, of course). Whether you’re after a hot flaky pastry for lunch — such as a hearty chicken pie or homemade spinach roll — or a sweet afternoon snack, Breadfern has you covered. Our go-to for the latter are the danishes glistening with homemade glaze.

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  • 1

    This well-loved Bondi establishment run by two talented Kiwis is a mecca for eastern suburbs sugar fans. And boy, can they make a good doughnut. Several, actually. The vanilla custard and raspberry jam is divine, but prepare for a very messy, multiple-napkin eating experience (even those of you who pride yourself on eating tacos neatly). It also has a nice lineup of savoury options, including lamb and rosemary, beef and ale, and lentil pies, as well as tarts, frittatas and pasta bakes.

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Top image: Breadfern by Trent van der Jagt

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