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FOOD & DRINK

The Teams Behind Shwarmama and Ester Are Opening AP Bakery in a Heritage-Listed Darlinghurst Cottage

Located a stone's throw from Oxford Street, the bakery will have an all-Australian wine list, fermented potato buns, flaky pastries and breads made using lesser-known seeds and grains.
By Marissa Ciampi
February 05, 2021
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By Marissa Ciampi
February 05, 2021
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Darlinghurst is set to gain a serious new player in its cafe scene with the opening of AP Bakery this March. Located along Burton Street (just behind Oxford), the new bakery is run by Shwarmama collaborators (and Sydney hospo greats) Russell Beard (Reuben Hills, Paramount Coffee Project, Paramount House Hotel) and Mat Lindsay (Ester, Poly).

The A and P stand for 'all purpose', but the gents are working with anything but ordinary flour. Head baker Dougal Muffet also farms the heirloom seeds and grains that will be used in the cafe's New American stone mill — which will be milling away daily to create bread with a premium flavour and nutrition combo. Other seeds will be supplied by the Australian Gene Bank, which focuses on old-world wheats and lesser-known corn varieties from local farmers who follow regenerative practices.

Expect the baked offering to change regularly, but some staples will include sourdough baguettes, fermented potato buns and mixed grain loaves. You can also count on extra-large pizza bianca and a pastry cabinet filled with classic (and oh-so-flaky) croissants, buckwheat pain au chocolate, rosella wheat canelé and Vegemite and asagio cheese scrolls.

Paramount Coffee Project

As with Reuben Hills and Paramount Coffee Project, the cuppas will be very, very good. Beans will be single origin, with seasonal espresso blends also on the docket. And it'll all be roasted at the nearby Reuben Hills Roastery, of course.

Apart from the caffeinated drinks, punters can also enjoy a glass of natural wine from the all-Australian list. A succinct brekkie and lunch menu will round out the offering.

With a fit-out by Architect Anthony Gill — who looked after the team's other venues of Poly, Ester and Shwarmama — the design plays to the cafe's setting in a heritage-listed sandstone cottage. Think exposed beams, a glasshouse-like entrance and all original fireplaces. The dining room will sit alongside the bakery, with the mill and deck oven on full display, so you can watch (and smell) the bread making in action.

AP Bakery is slated to open this March at 32 Burton Street, Darlinghurst.

Top image: Shwarmama by Kitti Gould

Published on February 05, 2021 by Marissa Ciampi

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