Within the walls of Buon Ricordo, as if in Italy, that constant flow of chatter removes the need for music. The huge painting on the wall also transports you to Europe, with giant unfurling flower petals that resemble radicchio leaves. The sun streaming through the curtains leaves only a silhouetted hint of the plants outside. It's easy to imagine a rolling Tuscan landscape extending beyond them dotted with Cypress pines.
It's also where you'll find some of the best Italian food in Sydney — focusing on refining the classic dishes without trying to reinvent the cuisine. The ingredients are allowed to taste as they ought to, not disguised by complex pretentiousness.
A thinly sliced Hiramasa kingfish refreshes the palate and is marinated in gin and vermouth with candied orange and Campari crystals.
The dishes move from light and refreshing to oozing with oil. However, as it is home grown extra virgin olive oil that's nearly good enough to sip on, the quantity is of no concern. The penne with cuttlefish ink sauce and braised cuttlefish with lemon zest and pecorino is divine and one of the highlights on the menu.
Wines are introduced as though new people, their histories and characters explained. As soon as a glass is empty it is whisked away, replaced with a clean, promptly filled new one. The waiters' silently glide through the room with elegance, showing off their old school European style of service.
Next is the gnocchi all vaccinara, a fresh made gnocchi served with oxtail ragu and a hint of cinnamon. It is deliciously rich and is equalled only by the panfried swordfish with sautéed cheery tomatoes, olives and capers.
Above the kitchen several Buon Ricordo Association plates line the wall. Visitors to the member restaurants of the Italian Association are given ornate ceramic dishes to take home after polishing off their 'plato del giorno'.
Underneath the Buon Ricordo plates sits 'Reg', a semi-permanent fixture at his corner table almost every Friday and Saturday. The main of Braciolette Reginaldo is a toast to him. Spinach is rolled within a crumbed veal escalope. Each bite of it releases parmesan and nutmeg. It is paired with a Villa Antinori, from the Sangiovese grape. The wine is so light that is it barely distinguishable as a red until it lingers on the tongue.
The meal is finished with tort a diplomatica, a puff pastry layering with rum-soaked sponge, stewed pear and caramel served with a healthy does of vanilla bean ice-cream. It is the perfect finish to cap of a deliciously succulent meal at Buon Ricordo Ristorante.
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