S'more

Overview

In the most unlikely of suburban streets, S'more, hidden way up in Sydney's north shore, is a fun and laid back steakhouse with serious food and imagination to spare. The interior is kept to the bare minimum, with a few white curtains to give it that breezy suburban feel, while a large blackboard sets the tone for the evening with chef's specials galore. You may find the metal chairs a little stiff, but don't be worried as the soundtrack of smooth jazz and easy Motown will have you mellowed out in no time. You don't have to dress up to come here, but you do have to book ahead, and when you book be prepared to pay as there is a minimum to each diner.

Opened by "Big" Sam Young and hist partner Grace Chen, they bring years of experience from Sydney institutions such as Mr Wong. Totti's and Queen Chow. They're offering begging with a Siberian caviar menu, which can be paired with a bottle of 2013 Dom Perignon for a hefty fee. Alternatively begin the night with some rock oysters with green apple and scallop curd with grapefruit and Hawaii dressing. Be sure to order some shallot bread with miso butter to soak up the duck egg yolk with potato cake.

Small plates at S'more include a crispy calamari with yuzu wasabi and seaweed salt. The wasabi is unlikely pairing with calamari but that's what these guys do best, pairing classic dishes with fresh flavours, it brings a touch of sophistication to the otherwise casual vibe.

The hibachi grill is the star attraction here, however, and the 450g O'Conner dry aged bone in sirloin is an absolute winner. Served with a ginger shallot relish and jus, it was cooked to absolute perfection. There is 250g MB9 wagyu flat iron with a soy glaze and a 1kg Jack's Creek t-bone to keep you honest.

If meat isn't your thing you're well looked after with wok fried broccolini or roasted butternut pumpkin with garlic butter and housemate chilli oil.

S'more's wine list is impressive with plenty of juicy whites and an impressive selection of bubbles including a 1964 Dom Perignon which will set you back a little. The reds have a strong Australian lean with some Barossa classic like 1999 Rockford Basket Press shiraz on offer as well as a magnum of 1985 Penfolds Grange. By the glass there are plenty on offer across all grapes. The cocktail list is fun with classics reinvented with ingredients such as yuzu, truffles and umeshu.

Images: Jiwon Kim